Does RL 550B or the XL 650 come with Dies?    Can I use my own Dies?

What machine options should I consider for the 550?

• Strong Mount
• Bullet Tray
• Empty Case Bin and Bracket
• Aluminum Roller Handle
• Low Powder Sensor
• Brian's "As It Should BE" Upgrade

Why isn't the 550's new Casefeeder recommended with the 550 initially?

What machine options should I consider for the 650?

• Casefeeder
• Strong Mount
• Bullet Tray
• Aluminum Roller Handle
• Low Powder Sensor
• Brian's "As It Should BE" Upgrade
• Powder Check System

What other Dillon accessories are normally bought with a 550/650?

What other general reloading accessories are necessary to begin reloading?

How high should I build my reloading bench?

What is needed for case preparation?   Case lube for carbide pistol dies?

Is it necessary to trim my brass?

What is required to Convert (change) Calibers on a 550?

What is required to Convert (change) Calibers on a 650?

If I don't buy a Deluxe Quick-Change Kit - why buy a Toolhead & Powder Die instead?

Which Powder Bars come with a machine or a Powder Measure?

Do I need the Universal Mount Kit?

The RL 550B or the XL 650?

The XL 650 or the Super 1050?

What is the best way to order Dillon Precision from BrianEnos.com?

When will my order arrive?  How much is shipping?  Will I get a tracking number?

Is Dillon’s lifetime "No BS" warranty still good through BrianEnos.com?

What about tech support?

What are the best powders for popular calibers? (Such as 9mm, 40 S&W, 45 ACP, 223, 308, etc.)

Where is the best place to buy reloading components?

What about "non-Dillon" reloading equipment?

Is there a massive collection of general and specific reloading FAQ's? (Other than here.)

How to begin reloading with the RL 550B: Part 1, Part 2, Part 3, Part 4, Part 5

RL 550B initial press setup: Part 1, Part 2, Part 3 (another guy's version)

RL 550B Toolhead Setup, Parts 1 - 4

RL 550B, beginning to reload ammo, after initial press setup

RT 1200 Case Trimmmer in operation on RL 550B (just operation, no set up instructions)

Super Swage 600 in operation

As purchased, both the RL 550 B and the XL 650 come with:

The RL 550B and the XL 650 do not come with Dies.
Dies are ordered separately for both the 550 and the 650. You can, however, use any manufacturer's standard 7/8" x 14 dies in a 550 or a 650.

Note: Dillon Dies vs. "Other Brand":
With the RL 550B's 4-station Toolhead, and the XL 650's 5-station Toolhead - both machines are designed to seat the bullet and taper crimp the round in separate stations. (Which was one of Mike Dillon's initial design criteria.) Chances are your (non-Dillon) dies seat & crimp in the same die, therefore Dillon offers individual Seating and Crimp Dies that can be purchased separately.

I highly recommend Dillon's Dies. Every aspect of each die has been redesigned to enhance the operation of a progressive machine.
(The Square Deal B comes with factory adjusted Dies that only fit the Sq Deal, and the Super 1050 B includes Dillon Dies.)

Strong Mount (also fits the 650)
Improves the machine's operation through stability. It increases the "footprint" of the press by approximately 75%. (550's footprint: Approx. 36 sq. in.; Strong Mount's footprint: Approx. 156 sq. in.) In all cases (with or w/o Strong Mount), buy or build the sturdiest bench possible.
550/650 Strong Mount raises machine 8.5" off bench.
650 Only Strong Mount raises machine 6.5" off bench.

Bullet Tray
In my opinion it's a must if you buy the Strong Mount. The Bullet Tray bolts to the Strong Mount, and holds 200 bullets right next to the shellplate.

Empty Case Bin and Bracket
Increasing speed through ergonomics (like the Bullet Tray), this handy accessory is a must-have if you buy the Strong Mount. The Bracket attaches to the Strong Mount, mounting an Empty Case Bin on the same level as the 550's platform, thereby reducing the "reach-time" for a new case. (Includes Empty Case Bin and mounting bracket.)

Aluminum Roller Handle
Most everyone who's tried it tells me they like it. I don't personally consider it as essential as I do for the 650, because with the 550 you must let go of the handle each time you load a round (to reach for a new case). Surprisingly, however, in a 550 owners poll from my Forum: Do you prefer the Roller Handle for your 550? The results are 87% (approx.) in the Aluminum Roller Handle's favor. And the Aluminum Roller Handle has a much more comfortable grip/feel, than the optional Plastic Roller Handle (which I didn't even mention).

Low Powder Sensor
Many feel it is typically unnecessary, as do I, because the clear, powder hopper is right in front of your face. Additionally, most folks loading on a 550 aren't loading at a high enough speed to inadvertently run the Powder Measure out of powder. For this reason, I now offer

Brian's "As It Should BE" 550 Upgrade:

• Strong Mount
• Bullet Tray
• Aluminum Roller Handle
• Empty Case Bin and Bracket

as opposed to Dillon's Power Upgrade (Currently Discontinued):

• Strong Mount
• Bullet Tray
• Plastic Roller Handle
• Low Powder Sensor

My version eliminates the Low Powder Sensor and replaces the Plastic Roller Handle with the more popular/requested Aluminum Roller Handle, and also includes the new Empty Case Bin and Bracket.

One last thought on the Low Powder Sensor: I know several very experienced loaders who use it. The reason: You pay for it once, and never worry about ever running the measure dry again.

[Dillon intorduced a Casefeeder for the 550 at the beginning of 2006.]
I don't recommend the Casefeeder for the 550 unless you already own and have some experience with a 550. And even then - because the 550's Casefeeder works with pistol cases only - I'd might recommend it if you don't load rifle ammo with your 550. (It's not easy to move the 550's Casefeeder "out of the way" in order to load rifle cartridges.)

In my opinion, 550 owners, especially if they're already set up to load several pistol calibers, have the most potential to benefit from the Casefeeder. After some experience with your 550, if you feel you really need a Casefeeder, for 250 bucks, you could upgrade your 550 without having to start all over with a 650.

This is a tricky topic. If you're considering buying your first Dillon press and you've narrowed it down to either a 550 or a 650 - if you think you just have to have a Casefeeder - then you should buy a 650. But - if you're buying your first Dillon press, in 19 out of 20 cases - the the 550 is the machine for you. More on the 550's virtues in Which Dillon...

The beauty of the 550 lies in its simplicity. And although hanging a Casefeeder on it may give you 200 rounds/hour, it will substantially increase your "fiddling with it" time. Especially every time you change calibers.

Will the 550's Casefeeder increase the 550's output? Certainly. But I still do not recommend buying it with a 550 initially.

From my Forum - click to see pictures and a video of the Casefeeder in action.

Casefeeder
It's essential for top performance from this truly progressive machine. Without the Casefeeder, you'll basically have an auto-indexing 550.
Note: The Casefeed Assembly includes a Casefeed Plate.

Special note for 40 S&W: Although Dillon "officially" recommends the Large Pistol Casefeed (Plate) for the 40 S&W, the 40 will work with either the Large or Small (Pistol) Plates. Considering that on your initial purchase may "save you a Plate," for a future caliber conversion. For example, if you plan to order a 650 in 40 S&W, and plan to convert it to 38 Super, order the Small Casefeed Assembly, initially, since the Super requires the Small Plate.

Strong Mount (650 only)
Improves every operation of the machine through stability. (Case feeding, priming, auto-indexing, and powder dispensing.) I highly recommend it unless your reloading bench is seriously heavy-duty.
(Raises machine 6.5" off bench.)

Bullet Tray - Aluminum Roller Handle
As with the 550, both continue to improve performance through ergonomics. And even more so on the 650 w/Casefeeder: Because your right hand never leaves the handle, your loading rate is determined by how quickly you can set a bullet on the upcoming case.

Low Powder Sensor
Not a fan on the 650 for the same reasons mentioned for the 550; however, on the 650 you will be loading appreciably faster, so the chances are greater you may run the measure out of powder. But, the 650 has an extra station in the Toolhead, especially designed for the -

Powder Check System
Checks for gross powder charge errors AFTER the powder has been dispensed but BEFORE the bullet is seated.
The Powder Check System will detect either a round without powder or a double charge. So if you buy the Powder Check System, the Low Powder Sensor is somewhat redundant. But please understand - the Powder Check System IS NOT a replacement for paying attention to everything that is happening every time you pull the handle on your reloading press.

Brian's "As It Should BE" 650 Upgrade:

• Strong Mount (650 only Strong Mount)
• Bullet Tray
• Aluminum Roller Handle

as opposed to Dillon's Power Upgrade (Currently Discontinued):

• Strong Mount
• Bullet Tray
• Plastic Roller Handle
• Low Powder Sensor

If you're buying a XL 650, I strongly recommend buying it with the Casefeeder and BE's As It Should BE Upgrade. And if a double-charge or a "no-charge" is a concern, add the Powder Check System.

Primer Flip Tray
Flips 100 primers at a time, "cup side up," so they are ready to be picked up by the:

Primer Pickup Tubes
All Dillon machines come with one small and one large Primer Pickup Tube, so I highly recommend buying a 4-pack of extra Pickup Tubes (in the appropriate size) when buying a press.
Both small and large Primer Pickup Tubes hold 100 primers.

Bench Wrench
It has a 1" open-end wrench on one end, which fits the lock rings on Dillon's Dies (only), and a 7/16" box-end (fits the Powder Measure) on the other. It's super handy, especially in the tight confines of a four or five-station Toolhead.

The Bench Wrench is also available with a five-pack of one-inch Dillon Die Lock Rings, which allows you to use Dillon's Bench Wrench on your "other brand" Dies.
Note: You do not need the extra Lock Rings if you buy Dillon's Dies.

Toolholder w/ 1" Bench Wrench and 5 ball-end Hex Keys  (New Item)
The newly introduced Toolholder includes a 1" Bench Wrench a 5 ball-end Hex Keys, and the Toolholder mounts on the back of the machine.

Spare Parts Kit
Will save you the "down time" waiting for Dillon to send (warranty) a broken small, spring, clip, or plastic part. You might think, "Why should I buy a Spare Parts Kit?" "Does that mean parts will start breaking right away?" Absolutely not. I think of the Spare Parts Kit like a Bullet Puller: You buy it and forget about it. Then if you need it later you'll be real happy you have it.

The Maintenance/Spare Parts Kit is the Spare Parts Kit plus lube.

Powder Scale
Either a balance-beam ("Eliminator" scale - approx $50) or electronic scale ("D-Terminator" scale - approx $135), either of which is used to calibrate how much powder the Powder Measure dispenses.

Calipers
Either Dial ($28.00) or Digital Calipers ($49.95), which are used to measure the overall length of the loaded cartridge, and to adjust and check the taper crimp.
BrianEnos.com is now selling/shipping Digital Calipers with have a large, easy-to-read display, which is accurate to +/- .001"  (+/- .0005 resolution), and they read in either inches or millimeters. And they come with an extra battery.

Adjusting a Taper Crimp Die with Calipers (in my Forum)

Reloading Manuals
Either a Speer or Lyman Reloading Manual, which provide and overview of reloading in general in addition to a wide range of reloading data. If you've never reloaded, get the Speer Manual first; if you're familiar with reloading in general, the Lyman Manual has a wider variety of load data. But eventually you'll probably want both.

The answer depends on several factors: Your physical size, whether you plan to stand or sit (and how high your chair is), and whether or not your machine has the Strong Mount.
With the following information, however, you can figure it out.

• When seated (or if you load standing), the machine's handle (at rest, in the "up position") should be even with your shoulder.
• For the 550 and the 650, without the Strong Mount and with the machine "at rest" (handle up), both handles (Ball and Roller) are approximately 7.5 to 8 inches above the bench.
• The 550/650 Strong Mount raises both machines 8.5 inches off the bench.
• The 650 ONLY Strong Mount raises the 650 6.5 inches off the bench.

CV/CM-500 Case Cleaner/Media Separator
Are used to clean and polish (used) range brass, and are always recommended for the beginning reloader.
CV 500 Capacity: Approx. 650 38 Special cases.

CV-2001 Vib Case Cleaner/CM-2000 Media Separator
Are huge versions of the same thing, and are typically recommended only for "serious, high-volume competitors."
CV 2001 Capacity: Approx. 1300 38 Special cases.

The cheapest, most effective way to clean your range brass is to tumble it with coarse-grade corn cob media. I don't sell it because although it's cheap, it is expensive to ship. You can find it locally at a feed and grain store, or at PetSmart or Wallmart. (It's sold to line bird cages.)

Dillon's Rapid Polish
A capful added to the tumbler makes your cases come out looking like new.

I recommend: Always lube rifle AND pistol cases - even with carbide dies.
You will load appreciably faster, and with less strain on the machine and yourself. Dillon's environmentally friendly pump spray works great. However, Hornady's "One Shot" case lube is my favorite for straight-walled pistol cases. (I don't sell it - pick it up at your local gunshop.)
Technically, case lube is not required with carbide pistol dies; however, load some rounds without lube, then spray some "One Shot" on the next batch of cases, and you'll never load without lube again. More in Which Dillon...

What is your favorite Case Lube and application method? (A discussion in my Forum)

It's seldom necessary to trim cases. In my opinion, for pistols, revolvers, and rifles - unless the round will not chamber in the gun because the case is too long, or you're attempting to win your State's Benchrest Championship - trimming brass is a waste of time.

One exception to the above for .223 or .308 rifle: Say you've collected a lot of "range brass" (brass that was not fired in your rifle) of unknown origin, and you're ready to start loading it for your semi-automatic rifle. Now Dillon's RT 1200B Power Case Trimmer, installed in a separate Toolhead, would work great to "batch-prep" all the brass, before firing it the first time in your rifle.

Keep your cases organized by the number of times they've been fired. This will keep all the cases in a particular batch of brass you're loading near the same overall length. Then you can forget about trimming.

I highly recommend starting with a batch of new brass. Put it all in one box. Then as you load from it, return it to a different box when you get back from the range. When you've fired all your new batch of brass, tumble it all and start over.

After a batch of brass has multiple (5-10) firings on it, you may notice the Seat and Crimp Dies (for handguns) could use a small "backing out" adjustment (or you may not), to compensate for the slightly longer, general overall length. It's much easier to fine tune the Seat and Crimp Dies every now and then than it is to trim the brass.

Additional Considerations for the 650:

A summary of what's below: A Powder Die comes with a Powder Measure; so it is included with the machine initially, or if you buy the Deluxe Quick-Change Kit when changing calibers (which includes a Powder Measure). When changing calibers, if you do not buy a Deluxe Quick-Change Kit, you should buy a Toolhead & Powder Die at the minimum (in addition to the required Caliber Conversion Kit and Dies). This will allow you to leave the Dies and the caliber-specific Powder Funnel adjustments intact in the Toolhead.

The Deluxe Quick-Change Kit includes a Powder Measure and Powder Die, Toolhead and Toolhead Stand (and costs approx. $80). Which allows you to leave all the caliber specific adjustments intact - the Dies and the Powder Measure - when switching calibers.

If you don't buy a Deluxe Quick-Change Kit (in addition to a Caliber Conversion Kit and Dies when converting calibers):

The Powder Die threads into the Toolhead and requires caliber-specific adjustment.
The Powder Funnel (included with a Caliber Conversion Kit) fits inside the Powder Die.
The Powder Measure attaches to the top of the Powder Die (with two allen-head bolts).

Unlike conventional reloading presses, all Dillon's Powder Measures drop the powder through the Powder Funnel, (which is inside the Powder Die).
The Powder Funnel does three things (for pistol cartridges):

• It has a hole through the middle (top to bottom), which allows the powder to drop from the Powder Measure through to the case below.
• It "neck sizes" the inside diameter of the case mouth. (pistol only)
• It "flares" or "bells" the case, so it is easier to seat the bullet (without "shaving lead") in the next station. (pistol only)

The Powder Funnel is caliber specific and comes with a Caliber Conversion.
The Powder Die is not caliber specific and does not come with anything - except a Powder Measure. (The Deluxe Quick-Change Kit includes a Powder Measure.)

The correct amount of flare or "bell' is applied to the case by adjusting the Powder Die, which has the Powder Funnel inside it, up or down (threaded adjustment), in the Toolhead.

So for caliber conversions, in addition to the required Caliber Conversion Kit and Dies, if you don't buy a Deluxe Quick-Change Kit, buy a Toolhead & Powder Die.

Powder Funnel for Rifle Calibers
It's only function is to drop the powder from the Powder Measure through to the case below. For rifle calibers, neck-sizing is accomplished in the sizing die, and instead of "flaring" the case mouth, normally a slight chamfer is applied to the case mouth with a chamfering tool. (Dillon sells the classic "Wilson Deburring Tool.")

1. Extra Small - for dispensing less than 3.0 grains of powder
2. Small - for dispensing 3 to 20 grains of powder (most pistol charges)
3. Large - for dispensing 20 to approximately 50 grains of powder (most rifle)
4. Magnum - for dispensing over 50 grains of powder

Both the Small (pistol) and Large (rifle) Powder Bars are included with every Dillon machine or Powder Measure.

The Extra Small (typically 32 Auto/S&W, or very light "Cowboy" loads in 38 Special - below 3 grains of powder) and Magnum Bar (required for 50+ grains) are non-standard and must be ordered separately.

In addition, they also manufacture a Belted Magnum Powder Measure, which is required for charges over approximately 85 grains.

You do not need it if you buy the Strong Mount (for any machine), because the Strong Mount includes all the hardware needed to bolt the machine to the Strong Mount, and the Strong Mount to your reloading bench. If you do not buy a Strong Mount for your press, however, the Universal Mounting Kit - an assortment of 1/4" bolts, nuts, and washers - might save you a trip to the hardware store.

The 550 will load virtually all pistol and rifle calibers, whereas the Square Deal will only load straight-walled pistol cases.

I almost always recommend the 550 for your first reloading purchase because it is a simpler, more versatile, and more reliable machine than the Square Deal. Day in day out the 550 will readily churn out ammo. And as your shooting hobby expands, your 550 will expand along with it, inexpensively able to accommodate over 160 calibers. It's simplicity, ease of operation, and rugged dependability make it my favorite machine, and Dillon's biggest seller by far.

The only time I recommend a Square Deal is if you have loaded on a friend's Sq Deal and liked it, cannot afford a 550, and never plan to load anything but a few pistol calibers. And did I mention that it's kind of small?
More in "Which Dillon" on  The speed-illusion of auto-indexing without a Casefeeder...

Although one of the tougher comparative decisions, I seldom recommend the 650 over the 550 as your first progressive machine, and even less as your first reloading machine in general. The 650, w/Casefeeder and auto-indexing, is a complex machine compared to the 550. However, a few exceptions for the 650 might be:

• You're shooting USPSA or IDPA pistol competition, or are planning to.
• You're an experienced reloader looking to upgrade from another brand.
• Plan to use the machine to load one or two calibers in high volume.
• Are not only tired of messing with your current piece of junk, but in general, would prefer to spend more time either shooting or hanging out with your wife or kids than reloading.
• Price is not an object.
• Your're not afraid of a complex machine.

You usually know if you are ready for the 650. Almost always, the 550 is a better choice over the 650 because of the reasons mentioned in the Sq Deal vs 550 comparison above.

Sill not sure: 550 vs. 650; or 650 vs. 1050
Here's another to think about it: How many rounds you will load in one caliber before switching to another caliber? (Apply this logic to all the calibers you will load.)

Rounds you will load before changing to another caliber:

• 550: 100 - 200+ rounds
• 650: 1000 - 2000+ rounds
• 1050: 5000+ rounds

It's so easy to switch calibers on the 550 - if you just load 100 or 200 rounds, you won't mind changing to another caliber. On the 650 however, I wouldn't want to change calibers unless I'd loaded a minimum of 1000 - 2000 rounds. And on the 1050, that number would be 5000 or more rounds, at the absolute minimum.

If you think the 550 is best for you, but feel you'd really like a 650, especially if you have friends with 650's who are pressuring you to buy one - check this discussion in my forum. (Weed through all the "buy from Brian" stuff at the beginning to get to tazmo65's post.)

If you are leaning toward the 650 (over the 550) because of the Powder Check System - Check this thread in my Forum.

At this point (if you've read Which Dillon) - if you still can't decide which machine will be best for you, do this: Call Dillon (1 800 223-4570) and order the 550 and the 650 Video Instruction Manuals, and the Speer #13 Reloading Manual. After watching the videos and reading the reloading intro in the Speer Manual, you will probably know which machine is right for you. Or just call me and we'll talk it over: 1 877 219-5598.

I could probably afford the 1050, but do I really need it?
I asked this question to three friends and long-time reloaders at Dillon Precision. Their answer: If you'll only load one to three-thousand rounds per month, and plan to switch calibers from now and then to frequently, get the 650. If you plan to shoot 50,000 to 60,000 rounds a year (4,000+ rounds/month), especially in a single caliber - get the 1050. So, if caliber changes will be involved, lean toward the 650. If you don't plan to switch calibers, and would just like to set down at the machine and crank out some serious ammo when you have a few minutes - get the 1050.
In the same way one knows if they're ready for the 650 over the 550, one usually knows when they're ready for a 1050.

One last note on the 1050's warranty: Unlike the lifetime "no BS" warranty for all other Dillon's machines, the Super 1050 has a one year warranty. Meaning, if after a year, you break the Shellplate on your 1050 by adjusting the primer swager improperly, you'll buy a new one. But if something small or inexpensive breaks, they will probably take care of you, if you ask nice. I loaded 30,000+ rounds a year for many years on one 1050, and I can't remember ever breaking anything. To me, the 1050's one year warranty would not even be a consideration when choosing between a 650 and a 1050.

Dillon Precision does discount "non-Dillon" products to dealers, such as:

• RCBS and Redding Dies, corn-cob media or walnut hulls, bullets, brass, target stands, Sure-Fire flashlights, Ammo Boxes and Cartridge (Acro) Bins, etc.

Which is why many "non-Dillon" items are not in my Online Store.

However, I now have Ammo Boxes, Acro Bins, and RCBS and Redding Dies in my Online Store. But please only add them to an existing (currently in progress) Dillon Precision order:

• Ammo Boxes & Cartridge (Acro) Bins
• RCBS and Redding Dies

Tumbling Media
It's best to find a local source for either (coarse-grade) corn-cob media or walnut hulls, because they're bulky and more expensive to ship than the product actually costs. I've seen coarse-grade corn-cob media in PetSmart, Walmart, and Target. (Sold for lining bird cages.) Or if you have a local "Feed / Grain" store, you should be able to find both media types there.

Brian Enos
PO Box 3168
Tempe AZ 85280
1 877 219-5598

• Dillon Online Store – If you're comfortable with your decisions.
  • The RL 550B and XL 650 store pages are laid out as an outline to guide you through your first order.
  • New: "EZ-buy" Packages for the RL 550B
• 1 877 219-5598 – Call (toll-free) if you're still unsure, and we'll figure it out together.

I personally review every online Dillon Precision order. If anything in your order doesn't "make sense," I will call you before placing your order with Dillon.

If you order online and have any doubts about any aspect of your order, type your questions into the "Special Instructions / Customer Message" field of the checkout form and I will call or email to confirm.

Also, on the checkout page - please feel free to add any info that might help me "decipher" your Dillon order. Such as,"I already have an extra Toolhead and Powder Die for the 9mm Conversion and Dies in this order."

Check this link if you'd like to pay by Certified Check or Money Order.

Dillon products are only available for Continental U.S. Billing and Shipping.

Tracking Numbers:
Dillon does not provide me with tracking numbers.   If you really, really need a tracking number, I will walk barefooted through the fires of hell to get one for you. 

Absolutely. Dillon products purchased through me carry Dillon's "Lifetime, no BS Warranty." Even if you found the press in the street, it would still be fully covered by their "Lifetime, no BS Warranty." (Except for the Super 1050, which carries a one-year warranty.) Should something break a quick call to Dillon will have anything you need headed your way immediately. Their customer support is truly outstanding. And since I'm "connected," I know it sounds crazy, but your support is even better through me. I get the right answers when no one else seems able to.

What about tech Support?

1. If you have a technical question or trouble with any Dillon product, the best thing to do is call Dillon first - 1 800 223-4570.
   (And they prefer you call rather than email tech support.)
2. If they're not open, check Dillon's Tech Help, which contains an excellent resource of machine and caliber specific reloading questions. First browse the "Instruction Manuals" for the machine(s) you're interested in, then check out the "Technical Help Guides" for a wealth of machine specific information.
3. Dillon tips, tricks, and mods in my forum, also including reloading tips in general - are a tremendous resource.
4. Then if you're still having problems, call me and I will figure it out, or hook you up with The Troubleshooting Master (at Dillon).

 Download Dillon Press Manuals (PDF)

• Square Deal
• RL 550B
• XL 650
• Super 1050