Did a cool fix to my roller handle and wanted to share
#1
Posted 19 November 2009 - 06:31 PM
So with building my new 650 I have taken my time and made sure to catch all the details I learned from before. So I took the washers and nylon lock nut off and scratched them up real good with a cutting wheel on my dremel. This gave them some grip so they dont spin around any more and it seems to have worked pretty good so far. I tightened it back up real good but I didnt even have to hold the handle to keep it from spinning on the last few turns with a cresent wrench which was a good sign it worked.
#3
Posted 22 November 2009 - 08:01 AM
The issue was they are all shiny and smooth so the handle wants to twist rather easily. So now they have some bite to them and so far so good.
#4
Posted 22 November 2009 - 02:12 PM
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#6
Posted 22 November 2009 - 06:10 PM
#7
Posted 22 November 2009 - 09:11 PM
The punch is another good idea. Just displace some metal to make for interference and it should bite pretty good. I just scratched the whole surface of the washers and nut to give a wider surface area that is roughed up.
#10
Posted 23 November 2009 - 06:49 PM
Sherwyn, on Nov 23 2009, 01:34 PM, said:
My 1050 has a factory set screw with matching recesses in handle.
Sherwyn
I wonder why Dillon doesn't do that with all the presses? I guess because the stock handle on the lower end ones is the ball head and rotation isn't an issue with that...but how much more work would it be to drill and tap and then include the screw with the roller handle?
#11
Posted 27 November 2009 - 04:48 PM
I wonder why Dillon doesn't do that with all the presses?
[/quote]
As much as I love Dillon, they are not without issues. To rely on a nut tightness to prevent part rotation - this is totally inexcusable for any, even inexperienced, designer... it is so bad I can't believe they still do it this way. There are many ways the rotation can be stopped, most of them quite inexpensive.
I would warn, however, about tapping the set screw hole in the existing part. While on the 1050 the shaft is made of steel, the cast part on the 650 is not ideal for such a solution, not without beefing it up first.
I would check the lock washer solutions first... what some folks did with modifying their washers is basically the same idea... for the life of me I can't figure out why the company would not include a 5 cent split washer on a $500 machine...
#15
Posted 24 December 2009 - 04:40 PM
SCV, on Dec 24 2009, 04:12 PM, said:
You will never know what you are missing until you use a machine with a roller handle.
I have washers top and bottom on my roller handles (two 650's). Tightened the lock nuts with a 1/2" ratchet and socket after they were anchored to the bench. Never had a problem with either handle moving in five years.
CYa,
Pat
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#16
Posted 24 December 2009 - 05:59 PM
Quote
I am new to Dillon but so far like the factory handle... I see no reason to change as of yet..
Report back after the first 1000 round session... I bet a roller handle will be in your future.
Oh yes!!!
#18
Posted 25 December 2009 - 06:19 AM

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