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Did a cool fix to my roller handle and wanted to share

#1 User is offline   Brian1911 

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Posted 19 November 2009 - 06:31 PM

On my 550 I have had issues every now and then with the roller handle wanting to rotate when cranking on it. I have had to sort of modify my grip and hold right where the arm bends to prevent this.

So with building my new 650 I have taken my time and made sure to catch all the details I learned from before. So I took the washers and nylon lock nut off and scratched them up real good with a cutting wheel on my dremel. This gave them some grip so they dont spin around any more and it seems to have worked pretty good so far. I tightened it back up real good but I didnt even have to hold the handle to keep it from spinning on the last few turns with a cresent wrench which was a good sign it worked.

#2 User is offline   gm iprod 

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Posted 22 November 2009 - 01:55 AM

I take it you ahve the washer on top of the crank / under the handle (opposite side to the lock nut)?
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#3 User is offline   Brian1911 

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Posted 22 November 2009 - 08:01 AM

I have one slid onto the handle first then insert it into the crank and add another then the lock nut. The 2 washers both make contact with the crank if that is what you mean.

The issue was they are all shiny and smooth so the handle wants to twist rather easily. So now they have some bite to them and so far so good.

#4 User is online   Chris Keen 

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Posted 22 November 2009 - 02:12 PM

Hmmmm ..... I have mine with 2 washers on TOP of the crank, and only the lock nut on the bottom, and it doesnt turn anymore.
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#5 User is offline   NoSteel 

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Posted 22 November 2009 - 03:39 PM

Had simililar issues with mine. Removed the flat washers, dimpled them with a punch and problem gone for many thousand rounds..............

#6 User is offline   TreblePlink 

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Posted 22 November 2009 - 06:10 PM

I recommended a 550 to a friend, and assembled it for him. I couldn't get the roller handle to stop twisting, so I kept on tightening it until I stripped it. So now it still twists, and is going to be a pain to remove. "Uhhh... mine never did that..." I told him. So he's just been using that way. Dillon really ought to solve this one. It's just not like Dillon to deliver something with a significant problem. Now that I hear others with the same issue, it does seem that there needs to be serrated washers added, or pin it.

#7 User is offline   Brian1911 

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Posted 22 November 2009 - 09:11 PM

WOW, I guess this is more wide spread then I thought. I to was worried about stripping out the threads when cranking on that nut with a wrench. Now it doesnt take that much force to get it tight and keep it put.

The punch is another good idea. Just displace some metal to make for interference and it should bite pretty good. I just scratched the whole surface of the washers and nut to give a wider surface area that is roughed up.

#8 User is offline   njl 

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Posted 23 November 2009 - 06:10 AM

I had this problem too, but found at least with the 9mm loading I've been doing, if the brass is lubed, I don't have to pull hard enough to rotate the handle.

#9 User is offline   Sherwyn 

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Posted 23 November 2009 - 11:34 AM

Same issue with my roller handle...drilled and tapped casting for a set screw - no more problem.

My 1050 has a factory set screw with matching recesses in handle.

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#10 User is offline   njl 

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Posted 23 November 2009 - 06:49 PM

View PostSherwyn, on Nov 23 2009, 01:34 PM, said:

Same issue with my roller handle...drilled and tapped casting for a set screw - no more problem.

My 1050 has a factory set screw with matching recesses in handle.

Sherwyn


I wonder why Dillon doesn't do that with all the presses? I guess because the stock handle on the lower end ones is the ball head and rotation isn't an issue with that...but how much more work would it be to drill and tap and then include the screw with the roller handle?

#11 User is offline   Foxbat 

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Posted 27 November 2009 - 04:48 PM

[/quote]

I wonder why Dillon doesn't do that with all the presses?
[/quote]

As much as I love Dillon, they are not without issues. To rely on a nut tightness to prevent part rotation - this is totally inexcusable for any, even inexperienced, designer... it is so bad I can't believe they still do it this way. There are many ways the rotation can be stopped, most of them quite inexpensive.

I would warn, however, about tapping the set screw hole in the existing part. While on the 1050 the shaft is made of steel, the cast part on the 650 is not ideal for such a solution, not without beefing it up first.

I would check the lock washer solutions first... what some folks did with modifying their washers is basically the same idea... for the life of me I can't figure out why the company would not include a 5 cent split washer on a $500 machine...

#12 User is offline   laportecharlie 

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Posted 19 December 2009 - 09:05 PM

I had the same problem and went back to the original handle. I'll try some of these fixes on mine

#13 User is offline   SCV 

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Posted 24 December 2009 - 04:12 PM

I am new to Dillon but so far like the factory handle... I see no reason to change as of yet..

#14 User is offline   maineshootah 

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Posted 24 December 2009 - 04:21 PM

View PostSCV, on Dec 24 2009, 06:12 PM, said:

I am new to Dillon but so far like the factory handle... I see no reason to change as of yet..



Report back after the first 1000 round session... I bet a roller handle will be in your future. :devil:
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#15 User is offline   whatmeworry 

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Posted 24 December 2009 - 04:40 PM

View PostSCV, on Dec 24 2009, 04:12 PM, said:

I am new to Dillon but so far like the factory handle... I see no reason to change as of yet..

You will never know what you are missing until you use a machine with a roller handle. :cheers: Then you will have one.

I have washers top and bottom on my roller handles (two 650's). Tightened the lock nuts with a 1/2" ratchet and socket after they were anchored to the bench. Never had a problem with either handle moving in five years.
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#16 User is offline   gm iprod 

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Posted 24 December 2009 - 05:59 PM

Quote

QUOTE (SCV @ Dec 24 2009, 06:12 PM)
I am new to Dillon but so far like the factory handle... I see no reason to change as of yet..


Report back after the first 1000 round session... I bet a roller handle will be in your future.


Oh yes!!!
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#17 User is offline   SCV 

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Posted 24 December 2009 - 10:15 PM

Bye the sounds of this I may as well go ahead and get one.... :roflol: I like this forum becase you guys tell it like you see it.

#18 User is offline   scribble 

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Posted 25 December 2009 - 06:19 AM

I just drilled a hole through the handle to be able to hold it firmly while tightening and have never had a problem, I have washers one up and one down.
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#19 User is offline   granderojo 

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Posted 25 December 2009 - 02:16 PM

+10 on the roller.
If for some strange reason you don't like it, just post it on the forum and it'll go away so fast you won't believe it. I tried the round one, changed to roller and will never look back!

HAPPY HOLIDAYS TO ALL

#20 User is offline   laportecharlie 

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Posted 02 January 2010 - 09:14 PM

I took the roller handle off my 550 several years ago because of the twisting. It's going back on!
Thanks,
Charlie

This post has been edited by laportecharlie: 02 January 2010 - 09:14 PM


#21 User is offline   racerba 

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Posted 02 January 2010 - 09:36 PM

Amazing what a Dewalt impact driver will do...
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