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Compensator tuning?

#1 User is offline   sbpt1911 

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Posted 16 November 2009 - 04:04 PM

Hi all,

I have a Jerry Miculek on my AR15, and at 50 yards the muzzle moves a bit up and to the right. I thought of drilling a
hole(s) in top of the compensator where is the best place to drill a hole? First pic or second pic.

Posted Image

Posted Image

#2 User is offline   00bullitt 

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Posted 16 November 2009 - 05:07 PM

First pic......but start with just one hole about .125" (1/8")

I actually like to cut a slot .100" front to back and .200" side to side
Speed is Fine,Accuracy is final....but accurate hits at extremely high speed is final much faster.

Amateurs do it til they get it right. Professionals do it til they can't get it wrong.

#3 User is offline   E-Tac CNC 

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Posted 18 November 2009 - 01:08 PM

View Postsbpt1911, on Nov 16 2009, 01:04 PM, said:

Hi all,

I have a Jerry Miculek on my AR15, and at 50 yards the muzzle moves a bit up and to the right. I thought of drilling a
hole(s) in top of the compensator where is the best place to drill a hole? First pic or second pic.

Posted Image

Posted Image


I am not sure I really understand this question. Seems to me you would want a comp that works in first place rather than modifying it.

That being said, if you other wise like the brake and it pulls one way or another, the first thing I would do is rotate the comp slightly off the 12 o'clock axis to adjust for pulling one way or another. Eliminating "lift" of sights is really an inherrent property of the original comp design but if you want to play with it, I would start with one small hole at time about .100 in diameter, closest to muzzle. In general, the farther you go away from muzzle the less effective it will be to reduce sight lift (flip). However more maximum anti lift is only obtained if the top hole is close to a baffle. Not sure why the Miculek comp is designed the way it is, but one thing for sure, if you do drill a hole wherever, make sure there is lots of metal arround it or you may get total comp failure with crack.

Also if you do drill make sure you do it slowly and use lots of coolant or oil. If you get over aggressive and generate a lot of heat you may get micro anealing arround the hole which can cause cracks and failure later.

Also one of the pics shows drilling holes thru the baffle, that is a definite no no. That would decrease effectiveness of comp to control recoil AND gives possiblity of comp failure, with early cracks in the baffle you would not be able to see

This post has been edited by E-Tac CNC: 18 November 2009 - 01:27 PM

Aloha,
Robert

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#4 User is offline   Pro2AInPA 

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Posted 18 November 2009 - 02:49 PM

Just get an SJC Titan.

#5 User is offline   benny hill 

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Posted 18 November 2009 - 02:59 PM

Or a rolling thunder that is fully tuneable.
benny hill

#6 User is offline   Jaxshooter 

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Posted 18 November 2009 - 04:38 PM

I have Miculek comps on 3 ARs. All you need to do is rotate the comp to eliminate the movement to the right. Just hand tighten the lock nut and shoot and rotate the comp until you find the sweet spot then tighten it down. The comp review in Front Sight rated the Miculek as one of the top comps and the price is excellent.

#7 User is offline   E-Tac CNC 

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Posted 18 November 2009 - 05:24 PM

Well to be honest, I have a horse in this race, so take what I say accordingly, but there is a comp that has none of these problems and has no discernable movement at all. Check out our dealer forum for more details and a video to demonstrate it. You dont have to fiddle with tuning or adjustments, we alreday did all that stuff.
Aloha,
Robert

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#8 User is online   ken hebert 

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Posted 18 November 2009 - 06:26 PM

View Postbenny hill, on Nov 18 2009, 03:59 PM, said:

Or a rolling thunder that is fully tuneable.



+1
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#9 User is offline   Shay1911 

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Posted 18 November 2009 - 08:23 PM

View Postken hebert, on Nov 18 2009, 08:26 PM, said:

View Postbenny hill, on Nov 18 2009, 03:59 PM, said:

Or a rolling thunder that is fully tuneable.



+1



Sorry for the basic question. How do you tune the rolling thunder? Is there a write up on it?
"Try not. Do. Or do not. There is no try."

"If you choose the quick and easy path, you will become an agent of evil."

"Tomorrow's battle is won during today's practice.
- Samurai maxim"

#10 User is offline   dmshozer1 

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Posted 24 November 2009 - 08:01 AM

View PostE-Tac CNC, on Nov 18 2009, 06:24 PM, said:

Well to be honest, I have a horse in this race, so take what I say accordingly, but there is a comp that has none of these problems and has no discernable movement at all. Check out our dealer forum for more details and a video to demonstrate it. You dont have to fiddle with tuning or adjustments, we alreday did all that stuff.

Read this. Ordered one. Received it. PROBLEM! It is 1/3-16 in diameter. To big around to use in anything but open class.
Screwed it on anyway to see if it worked as described. For me,"normal body, stance, grip," it moved sharply to the right.
Funny thing, all very fast double taps at 35 yds were in the center. My timing, don,t know?
Anyway, called them, they said they were working on a legal one for our game and would exchange it for the one I have.
Take care.

#11 User is offline   00bullitt 

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Posted 24 November 2009 - 11:25 AM

View Postdmshozer1, on Nov 24 2009, 10:01 AM, said:

View PostE-Tac CNC, on Nov 18 2009, 06:24 PM, said:

Well to be honest, I have a horse in this race, so take what I say accordingly, but there is a comp that has none of these problems and has no discernable movement at all. Check out our dealer forum for more details and a video to demonstrate it. You dont have to fiddle with tuning or adjustments, we alreday did all that stuff.

Read this. Ordered one. Received it. PROBLEM! It is 1/3-16 in diameter. To big around to use in anything but open class.
Screwed it on anyway to see if it worked as described. For me,"normal body, stance, grip," it moved sharply to the right.
Funny thing, all very fast double taps at 35 yds were in the center. My timing, don,t know?
Anyway, called them, they said they were working on a legal one for our game and would exchange it for the one I have.
Take care.


I got one too but got it knowing it was only legal for Open and not so much designed for competitions as much as it was made for shear durability to withstand repeated full auto firing . But my intention was for Full Auto. But on a 10.5" gun it made a huge difference and looks mean as hell on the end of the muzzle. We could basically mag dump and the dot never left the center mass of the US Popper(fixed position) we were shooting at. Even one handed. We took it off and shot it naked muzzle and it climbed over a foot above the target. It also does a great job of taming flash. We took some great video of it in action and I will be sending it to Robert at GoGun for use on his website.
I do look forward to checking out the competition version.
Speed is Fine,Accuracy is final....but accurate hits at extremely high speed is final much faster.

Amateurs do it til they get it right. Professionals do it til they can't get it wrong.

#12 User is offline   00bullitt 

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Posted 24 November 2009 - 11:27 AM

View Postken hebert, on Nov 18 2009, 08:26 PM, said:

View Postbenny hill, on Nov 18 2009, 03:59 PM, said:

Or a rolling thunder that is fully tuneable.



+1


I've never had to tune the first SJC Titan....but I guess its nice to have the capability.
Speed is Fine,Accuracy is final....but accurate hits at extremely high speed is final much faster.

Amateurs do it til they get it right. Professionals do it til they can't get it wrong.

#13 User is online   ken hebert 

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Posted 24 November 2009 - 11:34 AM

I've never tuned a Rolling Thunder either, whether it be a gen 1 or a gen 2, haven't had the need. But the ability is there.
Team FIREBIRD

I don't always shoot a rifle, but when I do... I prefer a Firebird. Stay accurate my friends.

If you're in the area, come enjoy my range: www.orangegunclub.com

#14 User is offline   jtischauser 

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Posted 24 November 2009 - 08:01 PM

View PostShay1911, on Nov 18 2009, 09:23 PM, said:

View Postken hebert, on Nov 18 2009, 08:26 PM, said:

View Postbenny hill, on Nov 18 2009, 03:59 PM, said:

Or a rolling thunder that is fully tuneable.



+1



Sorry for the basic question. How do you tune the rolling thunder? Is there a write up on it?


There is now! I must add that Mr. Benny Hill told me how to do this.
I just tuned mine this weekend on the back of my pickup with a cordless drill and 20 rounds of 223. I am a righty so I hold the forearm with my left hand. That left hand is placed as far out front as it can go on the hand guard. The recoil impulse sends the gun the opposite direction of that left hand which is up and right. So I started with the smallest drill bit in my trusty cheapo crafstman drill bit box and made a hole on the 3 o'clock postion of the compensator(or as close to 3 as I could eyeball). I then fired 2-3 rounds at an IPSC target 15-20 yds away and watched the dot in my Accupoint rise to the upper right. I then used the next bit size larger and shot 2-3 more while observing the dot rise and fall. I did this two or three more times until the dot only moved upwards. I then opened up the hoel on the top of the Rolling Thunder one more size and BOOM! No more dot movement. Its a beautiful thing. Here are some pics.
RIGHT SIDE
Posted Image
TOP
Posted Image
LEFT SIDE
Posted Image

#15 User is offline   Shay1911 

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Posted 25 November 2009 - 06:23 AM

View Postjtischauser, on Nov 24 2009, 10:01 PM, said:

View PostShay1911, on Nov 18 2009, 09:23 PM, said:

View Postken hebert, on Nov 18 2009, 08:26 PM, said:

View Postbenny hill, on Nov 18 2009, 03:59 PM, said:

Or a rolling thunder that is fully tuneable.



+1



Sorry for the basic question. How do you tune the rolling thunder? Is there a write up on it?


There is now! I must add that Mr. Benny Hill told me how to do this.
I just tuned mine this weekend on the back of my pickup with a cordless drill and 20 rounds of 223. I am a righty so I hold the forearm with my left hand. That left hand is placed as far out front as it can go on the hand guard. The recoil impulse sends the gun the opposite direction of that left hand which is up and right. So I started with the smallest drill bit in my trusty cheapo crafstman drill bit box and made a hole on the 3 o'clock postion of the compensator(or as close to 3 as I could eyeball). I then fired 2-3 rounds at an IPSC target 15-20 yds away and watched the dot in my Accupoint rise to the upper right. I then used the next bit size larger and shot 2-3 more while observing the dot rise and fall. I did this two or three more times until the dot only moved upwards. I then opened up the hoel on the top of the Rolling Thunder one more size and BOOM! No more dot movement. Its a beautiful thing. Here are some pics.



Thanks so much!
"Try not. Do. Or do not. There is no try."

"If you choose the quick and easy path, you will become an agent of evil."

"Tomorrow's battle is won during today's practice.
- Samurai maxim"

#16 User is offline   E-Tac CNC 

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Posted 26 November 2009 - 02:49 AM

View Post00bullitt, on Nov 24 2009, 08:25 AM, said:

View Postdmshozer1, on Nov 24 2009, 10:01 AM, said:

View PostE-Tac CNC, on Nov 18 2009, 06:24 PM, said:

Well to be honest, I have a horse in this race, so take what I say accordingly, but there is a comp that has none of these problems and has no discernable movement at all. Check out our dealer forum for more details and a video to demonstrate it. You dont have to fiddle with tuning or adjustments, we alreday did all that stuff.

Read this. Ordered one. Received it. PROBLEM! It is 1/3-16 in diameter. To big around to use in anything but open class.
Screwed it on anyway to see if it worked as described. For me,"normal body, stance, grip," it moved sharply to the right.
Funny thing, all very fast double taps at 35 yds were in the center. My timing, don,t know?
Anyway, called them, they said they were working on a legal one for our game and would exchange it for the one I have.
Take care.


I got one too but got it knowing it was only legal for Open and not so much designed for competitions as much as it was made for shear durability to withstand repeated full auto firing . But my intention was for Full Auto. But on a 10.5" gun it made a huge difference and looks mean as hell on the end of the muzzle. We could basically mag dump and the dot never left the center mass of the US Popper(fixed position) we were shooting at. Even one handed. We took it off and shot it naked muzzle and it climbed over a foot above the target. It also does a great job of taming flash. We took some great video of it in action and I will be sending it to Robert at GoGun for use on his website.
I do look forward to checking out the competition version.


At GoGun We have tried to make it very plain, the Talon comp is not legal for tactical only for open. Also it is designed to just plain work great under semi auto or full auto fire. It is was over built to take real punishment. I am thrilled to hear that dot does not leave center of mass on full auto fire, that was our goal, and just plain shootability. We have not had any other coments about pulling to right. It seems to stay extremely centered. One shooting problem that just does not happen with Talon Brake is naturall tendency to tense shoulder just before shot and to let up and not follow thru with shot which might cause pulling to right. But if you really relax, the brake shoots the gun with out much muscular input at all.

About the wicked look, Yes it looks WAY wicked, but practical also. The aggressive talon tips have a beveved edge that will not cut skin easily but will splinter wood for breaching without getting stuck. If all else fails, your rifle becomes a VERY Effective hand weapon.
Aloha,
Robert

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If I had more time, I would have shot faster.Visit GoGun Home page

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