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Upgrading springs on a G34 Should I do it all at once or one spring at a time?

#1 User is offline   chbrow10 

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Posted 10 November 2009 - 06:33 PM

I have ordered some new springs for a G34. Namely the recoil spring (with replacement guide rod) and 4lb. reduced power striker spring, reduced power safety block spring, and extra power trigger spring.

My question is: should I replace all of these at once, or should I do them one at a time to see if any of them give problems?

Thanks in advance!

Chris

#2 User is offline   Jman 

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Posted 10 November 2009 - 06:41 PM

One at a time. Be very careful. Messing with springs has caused MANY a Glock shooters major problems.

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Posted 10 November 2009 - 06:44 PM

I would just do the recoil spring and the striker spring at first. Clean the safety spring and put that back in, then if that all works ok, you can put the reduced safety spring in. That should give you a pretty good trigger. I don't know about the extra power trigger spring- you can try it-not sure it's needed along with those other changes.Have fun.
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#4 User is offline   sirveyr 

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Posted 10 November 2009 - 06:45 PM

View Postchbrow10, on Nov 10 2009, 07:33 PM, said:

I have ordered some new springs for a G34. Namely the recoil spring (with replacement guide rod) and 4lb. reduced power striker spring, reduced power safety block spring, and extra power trigger spring.

My question is: should I replace all of these at once, or should I do them one at a time to see if any of them give problems?

Thanks in advance!

Chris



Is your stock 34 not working properly? Put all of them in at once. Then, when things start f-ing up, take them out one piece at a time until it works. Eventually, you'll be back to a stock 34. :rolleyes:
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#5 User is offline   Tom in Ohio 

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Posted 10 November 2009 - 06:55 PM

I'd replace them all at the same time, and here's why. The springs all work together and you'll only know how they work together if they're all in together. Any problems caused by the springs will be different from each other and it won't be hard to figure out which spring is causing which problem.

I run a G34 and this is what I'd say about the springs.

Recoil: I've gone as low as 12# with the stock striker spring and extra power trigger spring. It doesn't even come close to pulling the slide out of battery and has functioned perfectly for 1000's of rounds. Less than 12# I don't know. I'd say you're fine experimenting between 12-17#. Any problem caused by the recoil spring wouldn't be caused by any of the others you'd replace.

Firing Pin: About the only problem a weaker firing pin spring would cause is light primer hits and none of the other springs would cause this.

Trigger: The only problem I've ever had with an extra power trigger spring is when I've used it with a 4# firing pin spring. The trigger does not fully return and the trigger safety doesn't engage. If this happens, I keep the extra power trigger spring and use the stock firing pin spring. The trigger pull is very similar with either the extra power trigger spring or the reduced power firing pin spring but with less chance of a light hit.

Firing Pin Safety: The only problem you could have with the reduced power firing pin spring would be a bizarre set of circumstances which would cause an accidental discharge. I would guess an internal part would have to break or be seriously out of spec at the same time the pistol took a very sharp blow from a specific direction. No problem you would ever notice firing it.

What I run: Ghost Rocket 3.5# connector, Wolff reduced power firing pin safety spring, Wolff extra power trigger spring, Wolff 13# recoil spring with non-captured SS guide rod. This has been 100% reliable for about 3000 rounds and the trigger is very smooth and short.

#6 User is offline   Aircooled6racer 

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Posted 10 November 2009 - 07:18 PM

Hello: Change the recoil spring,striker spring and the trigger spring all at once. That should get things the way you want. Lastly change the plunger spring if you want. I run a 13lb ISMI recoil, 4lb striker. Thanks, Eric

#7 User is offline   chbrow10 

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Posted 11 November 2009 - 07:42 PM

Thanks for the help folks. To answer sirveyr's question, the gun runs perfectly for me and my 10 year old son. For my just turned 9 year old, it is a jammo-matic due to his weak little kid's grip. I've got him strengthening his grip with the squeezy grippy things, but I thought that I would try to make the gun a little more forgiving as well.

Again, I appreciate all the advise.

Chris

#8 User is offline   MoNsTeR 

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Posted 11 November 2009 - 07:46 PM

IMHO, change the recoil spring, and either leave the others alone or get a full trigger kit (*cough*Vanek*cough*).
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#9 User is offline   chbrow10 

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Posted 13 November 2009 - 12:17 AM

Is a Vanek Production legal? I thought that they just outlawed that trigger recently? Anyway, I can't afford that at all. I'm shoestringing this whole thing along. I've got two boys shooting Production off the same gun, and me shooting single stack. All this ammo (min 450 rounds per match for all three of us) is being loaded on a turret press cuz I can't afford a 550. At least I get to spend time with them shooting!!! That makes it all worth it!!

#10 User is offline   soundwave 

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Posted 13 November 2009 - 01:05 AM

The one spring I left out from the kit I got was the trigger spring. It just messed with the reset too much, which in my opinion is the nicest part of a Glock trigger.

I have not had any ignition problems with a reduced striker spring and reduced safety plunger spring.
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#11 User is offline   chbrow10 

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Posted 13 November 2009 - 05:47 PM

I just changed them all at once to dryfire. You can definitley tell the difference. But man, is that non captured recoil spring a bear to get in there.... any hints on that?

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