[SLM]

I have two plastic bodied C-More's and one is terrible about holding zero. I have to adjust it every two to three weeks and that's not always possible with work, etc.

Do the aluminum bodied ones hold zero with more consistency? The one isn't too bad but this one... It's horrible and it has cost me a bunch of points a couple times this summer, most notably the MI Section match and then again this past weekend.

I can deal with it when I suck but when my gear is what screws me, I'm not happy!

[Larry White]

Call C More and send it back. They will fix it, they may charge you but its still cheaper than buying a replacement.-----------Larry

[Chris Keen]

Isnt it usually like $40 to get it replaced / repaired? That's cheap if it's costing you matches.

[pmd]

Check the plastic C-more for a cracks - I've had a couple crack on the underside at the tension screw area - I've since switched to the aluminum bodied ones and they've held 100%.
So far the only issue I've had with the aluminum C-More is the dial has fallen off - This past weekend at the Gator Classic was the second time this has happened.

[SLM]

Thanks. I've looked this one over twice and haven't found a crack in it. The one that doesn't move does have a crack under the head of the left/right adjustment screw but it doesn't seem to cause that one any problems. Go figure! There's one more local match I want to shoot then I'll call C-More and see what they say. I can handle $40.00 bucks. That's not even a night in a motel.

Otherwise I guess I'll drop the green on an aluminum one... That's the cost of shooting a Major but it if it stays put I'd be happy.

PMD, yours are pretty much "set it and forget it I take it"?

[G-ManBart]

I started a thread about this a year or so ago...I'll try to find it. The Al bodies do hold zero better, but the extra weight is a potential downside. When I put one on my Bedell with the Quinn I mount, the gun simply wouldn't run. The extra weight was causing some sort of weird harmonic thing and it wouldn't extract/eject cases. That extra weight up high also felt a little odd (might have gotten used to it). I swapped the plastic body scope on that mount and it went back to being 100%....weird. R,

[pmd]

SLM, on Oct 28 2009, 01:08 AM, said:

PMD, yours are pretty much "set it and forget it I take it"?

Yes - I have them on a few pistols and they all hold (knock on wood..) - as G-ManBart noted they are a little heavier.

Here's a pic of the broken dial.

[attachment=28930:C_more.jpg]

[Sudden Death]

pmd, on Oct 27 2009, 09:06 AM, said:

Check the plastic C-more for a cracks - I've had a couple crack on the underside at the tension screw area - I've since switched to the aluminum bodied ones and they've held 100%.
So far the only issue I've had with the aluminum C-More is the dial has fallen off - This past weekend at the Gator Classic was the second time this has happened.

I have a friend that has the alum. one on his open gun and IT DID CRACK and he sent it back to cmore , I don't know the out come of that yet I don't think cmore has contacted him yet and his dial did the same fell off. Good luck with your choice.

This post has been edited by Sudden Death: 28 October 2009 - 05:44 AM

[Sudden Death]

I forgot to add the reason he went to the alum. one is ,he liked the weight of it better he said, he liked the way his gun balanced with it.

[WDB]

One word...........Aimpoint

[XRe]

I have a T-1 on my AR. I've also handled Zerwas'. Not a good solution for me. It's great on a rifle for a CQB optic, but otherwise, the dot is too small (actually measured it out at 3 MOA...), and the window is too small.

Which direction is your zero wandering? If it's up and down, I don't have a solution. If it's the windage adjustment, there's a potential solution (though C-More will apparently complain to you if you end up sending it back to them afterward). Take the scope off the mount. Run the windage screw all the way to one side, and place a small drop of BLUE (Locktite 242) on the threads of the adjustment screw that are visible from the bottom of the scope. Run the screw all the way to the other side, and then back to roughly the center. Mount it back on the scope mount and let it sit over night. The screw will now have more resistance to turning, and should resist losing zero because the windage screw is too easy to rotate.

You can also mark the body of your scope one you have it sighted in with the position of the windage screw. If the screw moves under recoil, you'll be able to see it (and you can adjust it right back to zero without having to check against a target).

I went through this earlier in the year with a scope, and this procedure fixed it for me. YMMV The only time mine has lost zero since then is when flying - the scope tends to drift a bit vertically when it's been in a hard case and handled by "savage baggage masters"...

[SLM]

It moves, well, up and down. It's on a Quinn so it's actually moving right/left but it's the up/down adjustment that wanders. I'm kind of wondering if it's temperature related with the plastic getting more flexible when it gets warm or something.

[Hi-Power Jack]

SLM, on Oct 27 2009, 09:42 AM, said:

I have two plastic bodied C-More's and one is terrible about holding zero. I have to adjust it every two to three weeks and that's not always possible with work, etc.

I had the same problem on my TruBor, and finally discovered it was a
loose screw holding the grip on the gun:(

[openmike]

I had horrible problems keeping my plastic bodied c-more zeroed. I made an index mark on the elevation adjustment screw. The screw clock about 15 degrees in 200 rounds of shooting. I took it apart, and reassembled with blue lock tight on everthing that has threads, zeroed, and no more problems. (The set screw that hold the adjustment screw was not holding)

[B.J. Norris]

WDB, on Oct 28 2009, 03:40 PM, said:

One word...........Aimpoint

+1, Even if the zero moves (which is very seldom), you can usually get it back to perfect within 5 shots because the adjustments are extremely consistent.

But to answer the plastic vs. aluminum question. It is better, However, for me, it wasn't enough to justify the added weight, and the aluminum isn't without it's own unique set of challenges.

[BSeevers]

My current cmore has made the trip back twice before it acts like my last one. No drift but I did have to blue loctite the windage screw as mentioned

This post has been edited by BSeevers: 22 December 2009 - 12:51 PM

[calishootr]

guess im lucking out, the only thing that has actually 'broke' on one of my C-more's was an elevation screw actually snapped in half, so the whole plate/screen was floating around on me....past that, mine are all solid(knock on wood) havent messed with the wind/elev screws on mine in yrs....all this talk has me looking ovr my shoulder tho....hmmmm have to go check screws....