Softest Feel in a Limited Major .40
#1
Posted 22 October 2009 - 12:35 PM
I have been shooting competitively for 2 years. Mostly IDPA and recently USPSA in the production division.
I am making the jump to Limited and I am having a 2011 built for me in .40. I am also thinking about starting to reload.
What is the best powder and bullet weight to reload for the softest feel.
Any input on purchasing ammo from Atl. Arms
#3
Posted 22 October 2009 - 12:47 PM
Limited - STI Bedell 5" 40SW
Open - STI Sailor Custom 5" 38sc
Single Stack - Dan Wesson SSC 40SW
Production - S&W M&P9pro or CZ75 SP-01 Shadow Custom
3gun - Bushmaster AR15 20"bbl, Benelli M2 21"bbl
Dillon 550b and Super 1050
#4
Posted 23 October 2009 - 06:39 AM
redwoods, on Oct 22 2009, 12:47 PM, said:
thanks redwood, i have been reading since you posted this and there is a lot of data, and a lot of stuff that i don't understand yet, but i am learning.
it seems that most shooter are using VV (with some number), tightgroup, and universal clays,and some other types of powder.
I am getting confused with the whole clays thing. wish they would name them something else
is universal clays a good powder for reloading .40cal to major power factor out of a 5" 2011 with a kart barrel.
where do you guys purchase your components from seems like everyone is out of stock
#5
Posted 23 October 2009 - 07:15 AM
ss+P, on Oct 22 2009, 03:35 PM, said:
I have been shooting competitively for 2 years. Mostly IDPA and recently USPSA in the production division.
I am making the jump to Limited and I am having a 2011 built for me in .40. I am also thinking about starting to reload.
What is the best powder and bullet weight to reload for the softest feel.
Any input on purchasing ammo from Atl. Arms
I have used the .40 Minor ammo from Atlanta Arms and it is very soft. Their .40 Major is "soft" for a major load, barely makes major. I would test the minor first before buying too much to make sure it feeds. Some Limited guns I've had like the longer, 1.18 OAL ammo, they sell much better. In any case, Atlanta Arms are great to deal with, quality products and service. If you ever have any issues, they will fix it.
This post has been edited by wkj4567: 23 October 2009 - 07:16 AM
#6
Posted 23 October 2009 - 07:19 AM
As for components. IMO - Any place you can find with components in stock is a good place to buy. At the risk of having people call you a "horder" ..if you find someplace with primers in stock buy all they have or all you can afford to buy... Saves the angst of running low and not being able to find them when you are nearly out. A quick search in the .40/10mm reloading section will give you an idea of which primers are the most popular. About any small pistol will work and a lot of guys use small rifle also. IMO it's really hard to go wrong with components if you keep your choices "mainstream" and use what most people use. Get a decent stock of commonly used components and then you have time to ask questions and search around for that "perfect" combination.
Avoid the exotic until you are more experienced as a reloader.
Enjoy!
YMMV.
Coastal Bend Shooters USPSA - IDPA - ICORE - 3 Gun
#7
Posted 23 October 2009 - 07:24 AM
Merlin Orr, on Oct 23 2009, 10:19 AM, said:
As for components. IMO - Any place you can find with components in stock is a good place to buy. At the risk of having people call you a "horder" ..if you find someplace with primers in stock buy all they have or all you can afford to buy... Saves the angst of running low and not being able to find them when you are nearly out. A quick search in the .40/10mm reloading section will give you an idea of which primers are the most popular. About any small pistol will work and a lot of guys use small rifle also. IMO it's really hard to go wrong with components if you keep your choices "mainstream" and use what most people use. Get a decent stock of commonly used components and then you have time to ask questions and search around for that "perfect" combination.
Avoid the exotic until you are more experienced as a reloader.
Enjoy!
YMMV.
And that is why Merlin is a genius
#9
Posted 23 October 2009 - 09:57 AM
#10
Posted 23 October 2009 - 10:33 AM
ss+P, on Oct 23 2009, 10:12 AM, said:
4 lbs should load 5600 rounds at 5.0 grains per load, so that should certainly hold you long enough to settle on a load or try other powders.
Formerly Fastest of the Slow Shooters, Currently Slowest of the Fast Shooters
#11
Posted 23 October 2009 - 10:52 AM
Merlin is spot on with TiteGroup however his choice of bullet is off, the 180 is snappy when compared to the 200 gr. My personal recommendation since you are having an STI built is to yes go with TiteGroup and Zero 200gr bullets. Montana Gold are good bullets but take more powder to push so they wind up in 3rd place behind Zero, and Hornady.
My TiteGroup load for 200gr is 4.3gr with an OAL 1.185 to 1.20. This load makes major easily and will cycle your gun well.
The reply on WST is also true but with Lead/Moly bullets, I use WST with Precison 185gr Moly coated bullets. That recipe is 4.8gr at 1.185 (171 pf). For jacketed 180gr bullets it takes 5.1gr to get to major.
Since you are new to reloading go with jacketed for a while because its hard to mess up a jacketed bullet. It will also break you gun in better and the inside of the barrel will get smoother with every shot, and your ability to handle recoil will improve as well. When you have a few thousand rounds under your belt you can try the Lead or Molly coated.
Should you reload, if you have a maid, butler, and someone drives you around then obviously not, you've got the resources to have them loaded. I load 40's for $150 per thousand at todays cost. That is $7.50 a box and it is loads you can't buy at Walmart. If you are apprehensive about it get a Dillon Square Deal B $329, a Lee Safety Scale $21, Caliper (?$20.00?), tumbler (?$50?), and $8.00 for a SAMMI Check aka (Drop Check). All this stuff will pay for its self in about 3000 rounds and if you are a shooter that is 3 months or less. A Redding GRX is the ticket for having your reloads run perfectly.
Note on TiteGroup when it gets cold it gets hot. A 168pf load at 90 will turn into a 180 pf load at 40. VV N320 is also a very good powder but costs more and is hard to find at times.
C Class Open/Limited/SS/RO
http://www.sashooter.com
The maximum effect range of an excuse is zero meters.
#12
Posted 23 October 2009 - 10:53 AM
ss+P, on Oct 23 2009, 08:39 AM, said:
redwoods, on Oct 22 2009, 12:47 PM, said:
I am getting confused with the whole clays thing. wish they would name them something else
From my understanding through the "grapevine".... They are in the process/thinking about renaming them "clays", "universal" and "international"
Take that rumor with the normal grain or 12 of salt though
When I got into reloading I was lucky to have a friend teach me and I noticed the can looked a little different than what he showed me and I called him just before I bought a can of regular Clays instead of the Universal... I was lucky because that could have ended very VERY!! badly
"What do you mean the OAL is all over the place...that shouldn't hurt anything, right?"
"On weekends, to let off steam, I participate in full-contact origami."
#13
Posted 23 October 2009 - 07:30 PM
wkj4567, on Oct 23 2009, 08:15 AM, said:
Funny, at L Nationals this year on the "board of shame" was a 163 ish power factor - next to it was "Thanks, Atlanta Arms!"
As for the original question - go with Clays (loaded long - over 1.20") or VV320 - that's where you'll end up eventually. When I was newer I liked the softer push of the 200gr bullets, but as I improve I find 180gr, for me, make the sights track MUCH better. The 200gr now seem slow and sloppy. To each his own...
#14
Posted 23 October 2009 - 07:37 PM
#16
Posted 24 October 2009 - 06:04 AM
...she can't handle cop cars or taxi-cabs yet. But she can wear the hell out of a bikini.
#17
Posted 25 October 2009 - 05:02 AM
The scary part was the load went 165.2PF. That's a little to close for my liking but legal!
My load which went 171 at home with a Ohler 3 stage went 177 there.
I think the chrono is VOODOO.
#18
Posted 25 October 2009 - 07:11 AM
#19
Posted 26 October 2009 - 08:27 AM
They both make major at about 170 PF and seem soft in both a Para P16-40 and an STI-Trojan.
TY35292
#20
Posted 26 October 2009 - 09:34 AM
bbbean, on Oct 23 2009, 11:33 AM, said:
ss+P, on Oct 23 2009, 10:12 AM, said:
4 lbs should load 5600 rounds at 5.0 grains per load, so that should certainly hold you long enough to settle on a load or try other powders.
If you're in MD, then all the knowledge you need is already there with you.
Get with Jeff Salzburg (MD at Fredricksburg) or Tino or Seth Markowitz or Anthony (MD at St Charles) or Rob Moore. They are all knowledgeable.
Start reloading. Get a Dillon 550b, start with jacketed bullets (Montana Golds are easy to get and easy to load) not Moly's, Titegroup powder, and an EGW Undersized resizing die. Keep it simple. Everything else is personal preference.
Once you get some experience and knowledge behind you, then you can start to experiment with other loads. Moly and lead bullets are cheaper, but take more time and experience to get right. I don't recommend them for beginners.
#21
Posted 26 October 2009 - 11:01 AM
(No wonder I cain't shoot no better'n C class scores....)
#23
Posted 01 March 2010 - 09:46 PM
Is there a reason which I am ignorant of as to why no one mentions 4756 as a good powder for the 40 S&W 180 grain bullet?
thanks, earl
#24
Posted 02 March 2010 - 05:16 AM
TY-36459
#25
Posted 02 March 2010 - 05:56 AM
This is a very clean burning and temperature consistent load.
Don't be scared to experiment.
This post has been edited by Pezco: 02 March 2010 - 05:57 AM
"Use what works and get rid of the rest" - Bruce Lee

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