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Question or two

#1 User is offline   HairlessOtter 

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Posted 19 August 2009 - 08:29 AM

40 S&W

I am newer to reloading. I have read a couple of books. I am working on my "recipes" I am using the following equipment:

Press - Forster single stage Coax
Lee Dies + Lee Factory Crimp Die
Powder Measure - RCBS
Scale - RCBS 502 (balanced and checked for accuracy w/check weights)
Primer - RCBS hand prime tool

Primers - Wichester Small Pistol
Brass - Winchester & R P (Remington)
Bullet - Hard Cast Lead 170 gr
Powder - W231

Glock G-35 w/Lone Wolfe 4 port barrel

OAL - 1.1250
Crimp - I don't recall off the top of my head but it is very slight. I don't have my log book with me as I am at work.

Internet recipes call for 4.7-5.2 gr data link. All had some fail to eject and the 4.7 would barely make the targert. Speers calls for 5.8-6.2 gr. These seem a bit warm. All ran well. I have not tried the middle of this yet. I plan on cooking some up this weekend and testing them.

My question:
Why such a HUGE difference in powder amount? Anyone else have the same variables as I? If so, what is your recipe?

This post has been edited by HairlessOtter: 19 August 2009 - 08:30 AM


#2 User is offline   DWPatriot 

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Posted 19 August 2009 - 09:18 AM

My suggestion would be to get a good general reloading manual such as "Modern Reloading" by Lee
Lee Reloading Manual


I would also buy or borrow a chronograph to check your loads. It is hard to really know what your loads are doing without checking velocities. (Are you loading to make a power factor for competition or just trying to get a functioning load?)

My experience has been that the powder companies are very "optimistic" on their velocity figures. I have found Lee's recipes to be more realistic. I am running into the same spread of recommended powder weights (mfgr vs Lee) in trying to work up a new .45 acp load for my son.

Start low and slowly work your way up - always checking your brass for signs of over-pressure as you go.

#3 User is offline   Sarge 

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Posted 19 August 2009 - 09:31 AM

+1 on getting a chrono. Even one of the cheaper ones will work OK. I thought I could just load what others here recommended and what the books all said but I learned I was not making power factor with MY GUN. I got mine when somebody here made the comment that reloading without a chrono I was missing a HUGE piece of the puzzle. They were right. Now I live by the chrono.
Kevin Sanders
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#4 User is offline   larry cazes 

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Posted 19 August 2009 - 09:57 AM

View Postsandman, on Aug 19 2009, 09:31 AM, said:

+1 on getting a chrono. Even one of the cheaper ones will work OK. I thought I could just load what others here recommended and what the books all said but I learned I was not making power factor with MY GUN. I got mine when somebody here made the comment that reloading without a chrono I was missing a HUGE piece of the puzzle. They were right. Now I live by the chrono.



Great advice. Take it to heart and invest in a chrono before going much further. Different guns require different loads and different manufacturing lots of powder vary enough to make using a chronograph neccessary.

#5 User is offline   HairlessOtter 

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Posted 19 August 2009 - 11:35 AM

How about naming a few good, well priced chronos for a guy? What should one look for in purchasing a chrono?

#6 User is offline   Justsomeguy 

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Posted 20 August 2009 - 05:33 AM

View PostHairlessOtter, on Aug 19 2009, 11:35 AM, said:

How about naming a few good, well priced chronos for a guy? What should one look for in purchasing a chrono?


My personal favorite is the ProChrono Digital. They have an easy to use interface, can be paired with several accessories if you want them, and can be purchased for about $100 from various sources. For about $35 you can even get a "kit" from the manufacturer for a cable and software to download the data into your computer from the chronograph. The Chronograph itself will record not only the speed, but for the string of tested rounds report out the hi, low, average speed, extreme spread and standard deviation. A pretty good unit for the money, it is also one of the most reliable under field conditions from full sunlight to complete overcast.
You do not examine legislation in light of the benefits it will convey if properly administered, but in light of the wrongs it would do and the harms it would cause if improperly administered. —LYNDON B. JOHNSON - e pluribus unum

#7 User is offline   Classic_jon 

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Posted 27 August 2009 - 03:19 PM

I found that a lot of the loads on the "handloads" site were in tuned raceguns or ones with other nonstandard add on's. Be careful when you are looking at some of the loads recommended that don't have a lot of dataas to what they were shooting it with.

One load I saw on there was for 10.2 gr of HS-6. I did some checking and looked at my speer manual and loaded one up at 9.2gr to test with. 9.2 is just below what Speer says is the danger zone with HS-6 and a 135gr JHP. I made 20 of them and I can tell you this ...the chrony said they were doing every bit of 1350fps out of my 4" stock Springfield XD service. You also *knew* those rounds had a lot of powder behind them too!

I made a note of it in my logbook, shot the rest of them...and don't plan to use that load again unless I am hunting hogs or something else that is LARGE :surprise: ....
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"What do you mean the OAL is all over the place...that shouldn't hurt anything, right?"

"On weekends, to let off steam, I participate in full-contact origami."

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