[outerlimits]

i'm curious, for all of you using 1x variable scopes, at what distances do you dial it up from 1x when engaging paper targets?

[mike.45]

I know a lot of people go on about the spiritual powers of the TRUE 1x power but I seldom use just 1x on my Meopta, I tend to use about 1.25 to 1.5 on most close paper out to 20m as I tend to find it faster than 1x. I think I am probably in the minority here though !

I only tend to use 1x on stuff closer than 10m.

Anything between 20 - 50m is between 1.5x and 2.0x and anything past 100m is impossible for any mortal human eye to shoot without ramping it up to 4x.

I can prove this as if you examine Kurt, Trapr or Kelly's shooting glasses they are actually have a special built in drop down 4x magnifying aid..... and you just thought they had really big bulbous eyes !!!

[uscbigdawg]

I got the same thing Mike. Basically played with some "snap shot" type drills and found that I was able to pick up the dot at > 1x.

Rich

[cold]

outerlimits, on Jul 27 2009, 01:16 PM, said:

i'm curious, for all of you using 1x variable scopes, at what distances do you dial it up from 1x when engaging paper targets?

I typically use 1.5 out to 50-75 yards (usually there are close hoser targets and then some more distance targets which demand attention but they are not SO far as to need more then 1.5 power, if that makes sense). From there, it depends on the stage layout for me.

This post has been edited by cold: 27 July 2009 - 05:32 PM

[BerKim]

Are you thinking in terms of stages at the BARC?

This last match I saw some different behaviors from people that I wasn't expecting.

In BARC terms:

On stage 2, shooting that on 4 power, same with stage 3, and people not zooming up on stage 7

Stage 2 and 3 were 40 yards.. normally I would have shot stage 1 those on 1 power, but I tried 4 power... I never really got a good sight picture, wobbling all over, that I wouldn't have noticed as much on 1 power. Stage 3, I went sitting so 4 was probably an ok choice with the no shoots and such..

Stage 4 and 5, I had it on 4 to shoot those clays, with the support, that was a good choice I think.

[StealthyBlagga]

I like to run 1x out to about 75yds, depending of course on the size of the available target. I'll zoom up if necessary to better ID the target, but I generally prefer the reduced wobble and wider FOV of the 1x setting. At 100yds and beyond I zoom to the maximum possible based on the most widely spaced consecutive targets... basically, I want to be able to see the current target AND the next target I am going to shoot in the scope at the same time if at all possible, which greatly speeds up target transitions for me.

[Charles Bond]

What the 1x gives me that the 1.5 or 2x does not on the really close stuff is much better target focus but that may just be my eyes. Picking up the dot on a snap shot is no problem on 1.3 or 1.5 but it seems that I am just more comfortable seeing targets less than 100 yards at 1x. Zoom up to 4x is always for anything past 125 yards. Keep in mind that one reason I do not go to 4x at 100 yards is my illuminated dot in my reticle is true 1x in the Spector DR first generation.

[blkbrd]

mike.45, on Jul 27 2009, 04:27 PM, said:

I know a lot of people go on about the spiritual powers of the TRUE 1x power but I seldom use just 1x on my Meopta, I tend to use about 1.25 to 1.5 on most close paper out to 20m as I tend to find it faster than 1x. I think I am probably in the minority here though !

I only tend to use 1x on stuff closer than 10m.

Anything between 20 - 50m is between 1.5x and 2.0x and anything past 100m is impossible for any mortal human eye to shoot without ramping it up to 4x.

I can prove this as if you examine Kurt, Trapr or Kelly's shooting glasses they are actually have a special built in drop down 4x magnifying aid..... and you just thought they had really big bulbous eyes !!!

+1

[Jadeslade]

1x for close targets or shoot house stage- targets 5-20 yds. 1.25 or 1.5x can really disorient you if you are running targets really fast-like 15 targets in 20 seconds. Hence the 1x-keep both eyes open (the classic Bindon concept). Not everyone can do both eyes open-it is a learned skill and some eyes are not conducive to functioning in that manner. Then dial up to 4x for long shots (while running or moving to set up). Some shooters like the intermediate settings for hunting targets in an array, but if you want to be fast and accurate, the 4x is it. I think you have to know where the targets are to go to 4x, so stage prep is important. For hard targets at 50-90 yds, where you are staged in a hide or vehicle, you can set your scope to 2-3x during make ready.

[mscott]

For paper targets up to 100 yards I wouldn't waste time moving the scope's power ring if they were on a course with targets at varying distances and movement. I would turn it up if there were only targets beyond 50 yards.

[George Post]

I've only shot irons up till now, but I will soon be adding a Millett DSM 1x4 to my new upper. At my home range we only have 100 yard rifle range so all my practice will be 0 to 100 yards. Should I zero the scope with it set at 2x and then see how much it changes zero when set to 0x and then 4x?

Thanks,
George

[outerlimits]

that scope is not a front focal plane reticle, so it will differ.

[George Post]

I'm sorry, I don't know what that means.

Am I going to have to know one set of zeros for low, med and high magnafication?

[fomeister]

I have used the Accupoint since its first days. I use the 1.25x (I will be using 1x now I have the true 1x) for fast and close shots out to say 25 yards. I use the 2x from there to 60 or so, then 4x from 75 to infinity. I usually decide on a power when I dope the stage, then verify at the LAMR. A few times I have shot all the close targets on 1.25x, then moved the scope up while changing positions without any loss of time. It really depends on the available portion of the target too. I have used the low settings all the way out on full targets, and I have used the higher ones on tight shots closer, like clays at 50 yards. IMO there is no hard and fast rule for practical shooting apps, whatever works. The more comfortable you are with it, the easier it will be, and there is a lot of overlap.

[caspian guy]

My meopta has magnifications other than 1x or 4x but I seldom use them.

Out to 50 to 75 yards 1x. Else 4x.

[outerlimits]

George Post, on Jul 29 2009, 01:54 PM, said:

I'm sorry, I don't know what that means.

Am I going to have to know one set of zeros for low, med and high magnafication?

in a front focal plane scope, the reticle size remains constant relative to the target’s dimensions at all magnifications. therefore, the ranging marks, such as mil-dots or bullet drop compensator marks stay in synch with the target image at any zoom level. much more expensive to make, but also more accurate relative to the reticle references.

[jtielke]

It depends on the course. I try to not change magnification on the clock if I don't have to. If most of the shots are 75 yards or less 1x. If they are around the 100-150 yard mark 2x. 4x if it is any further out than that. Of course the size of the target will also affect my decision. Also if the targets are grouped close together I'll put the magnification higher than if they are spread out. Searching for targets at high magnification kills a lot of time.

This post has been edited by jtielke: 29 July 2009 - 02:51 PM

[BayouSlide]

As a rule of thumb, above 100 yards. And definitely right to the 4X stop on 200 and over.

95 percent of the time, I'm at the two extremes of 1X or 4X. A cat-tail type speed lever really helps.

Curtis

This post has been edited by BayouSlide: 29 July 2009 - 03:10 PM

[Jadeslade]

George Post, on Jul 29 2009, 04:38 PM, said:

I've only shot irons up till now, but I will soon be adding a Millett DSM 1x4 to my new upper. At my home range we only have 100 yard rifle range so all my practice will be 0 to 100 yards. Should I zero the scope with it set at 2x and then see how much it changes zero when set to 0x and then 4x?

Thanks,
George

That looks like a decent scope. I would zero it at 1x-like at 25 yds, then check it at 100. Then dial it up to 4x and check it again, i.e. shoot some groups off a rest, at 100 yds. Then try it at different distances and power to learn what you like best. In a hurry, zero it at 25yds at 1x, then check it again at 4x at 25yds-not moving the turrets too much at the 4x. If its off by a lot, your groups are probably not small enough or your mount is not tight. Let us know how that scope is. Have fun.

[George Post]

Thanks Outerlimits, I understand now. I did notice that yesterday when playing around with the scope, but I didn't realize how important it could be. Thanks


Jadeslade, The parts for my new upper won't be here for another 3 months, but I'll try to remember to post something here when I get it together.

In the mean time I need to learn more scope stuff and work on reducing my 4 inch @100 yard groups

Thanks all

[jobob]

If your scope changes zero when you change the power - get rid of that scope! Doesn't matter what focal plane the reticle is in. It will make a difference when using the stadia lines for hold over, but not in the zero. When you are calculating hold over you'll be on the highest power anyway (or should be), so the 1st focal plane scope would be of no advantage.

I have a DMS scope and wish I'd saved my money. Good luck with yours, though.

Back to the original question. I use 1x (or 1.25 with my Accupoint) out to 100 yards for large IPSC style targets. For plates or smaller targets I like it at 4x from 50 yards out. I rarely use the powers in between.

[sshog8541]

outerlimits, on Jul 27 2009, 01:16 PM, said:

i'm curious, for all of you using 1x variable scopes, at what distances do you dial it up from 1x when engaging paper targets?

Outstanding Sig Lines outerlimits

This post has been edited by sshog8541: 15 August 2009 - 04:21 PM