Benelli Ghost load
#1
Posted 29 May 2009 - 02:26 PM
Thanks
USPSA: TY-36021
ICORE: CA1000
#2
Posted 29 May 2009 - 03:21 PM
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#3
Posted 29 May 2009 - 03:25 PM
It works. Took longer to dig out the dremel tool than it did to do the work.
Team FIREBIRD
#4
Posted 29 May 2009 - 03:49 PM
I wish I knew what I was trying to accomplish by beveling that notch.
USPSA: TY-36021
ICORE: CA1000
#5
Posted 29 May 2009 - 05:43 PM
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#6
Posted 29 May 2009 - 06:33 PM
Don't let Mr. Miller hear you say "ghost load"!
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I thought it was Muller, or was it Muellur?
Team FIREBIRD
#7
Posted 30 May 2009 - 09:33 AM
I broke the sharp edge on the rear side of the factory notch and it does work although I haven't shot it yet. When I hand cycle it it extracts the round in the chamber but the bolt holds open. If I press the bolt release before cycling it will chamber the round under the bolt.
I wish I knew what I was trying to accomplish by beveling that notch.
Pull the bolt back until just before the loading gate pops up, shove a round down onto the loading gate and one in the chamber and let the bolt go forward. You now have one extra round in the gun. If you don't bevel the notch, the loading gate won't stay down and you can't put the extra round there.
#8
Posted 15 July 2009 - 05:24 PM
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#9
Posted 15 July 2009 - 06:50 PM
Total Benelli newbie here. Not exactly sure of what I'm looking at/for in the modified bolt pics? Can someone show an unmod and mod next to each other? Getting an M2 would like to "ghost load".
Take a look at the pic Chris posted. Do you see the notch in the top rail area of the carrier? Near the rear (right side in the pic) there is an area with what looks like a blotch of black paint, just to the right of that on an unmodified bolt carrier is another notch. Chris's bolt was modified by welding the notch closed, I modified mine by removing the sharp edges which accomplished the same thing, allowing the lift gate to be pressed down with the bolt open.
USPSA: TY-36021
ICORE: CA1000
#10
Posted 15 July 2009 - 09:17 PM
#11
Posted 16 July 2009 - 11:38 AM
(24" barrel with full length Nordic tube)
BB
#12
Posted 16 July 2009 - 09:26 PM
Wheres the advantage with ghost load if, as in my case, the gun holds one more than division allows anyway?
(24" barrel with full length Nordic tube)
BB
One small advantage of having the bolt carrier modified is that, if when you fire your gun cycles but the bolt does not go all the way forward, if you start to do a reload there is a good chance that when reloading the bolt will move forward.
If your bolt is not altered you will not be able to start reloading unless the bolt is fully home. If you go to reload and you can’t, your train of thought can soon turn to rat s**t.
I don’t think this happens often but it can happen. It has happened to me before, just before I realised that my mag spring was goosed.
I modded my own and found it the easiest job to do so far, but then I am used to using a grinder. I actually used a 4” grinder with an Inox blade as this is about 1/16” (1.6mm) thick. If you are not 100% happy using a grinder then it may be worth considering if the modification is worth it, as like you said, you don’t need to ghost load anyway.
Enjoy your shooting.
Kind regards
Mick
Edited by Michael Flatley, 16 July 2009 - 09:27 PM.
#13
Posted 17 July 2009 - 12:20 PM
Wheres the advantage with ghost load if, as in my case, the gun holds one more than division allows anyway?
(24" barrel with full length Nordic tube)
BB
One small advantage of having the bolt carrier modified is that, if when you fire your gun cycles but the bolt does not go all the way forward, if you start to do a reload there is a good chance that when reloading the bolt will move forward.
If your bolt is not altered you will not be able to start reloading unless the bolt is fully home. If you go to reload and you can’t, your train of thought can soon turn to rat s**t.
I don’t think this happens often but it can happen. It has happened to me before, just before I realised that my mag spring was goosed.
I modded my own and found it the easiest job to do so far, but then I am used to using a grinder. I actually used a 4” grinder with an Inox blade as this is about 1/16” (1.6mm) thick. If you are not 100% happy using a grinder then it may be worth considering if the modification is worth it, as like you said, you don’t need to ghost load anyway.
Enjoy your shooting.
Kind regards
Mick
You are talking about a different mod - the ghost load still has the issue of not being able to load the tube with the bolt not full locked up. The notch you are cutting allows the shell lifter to get out of the way, but not sure if it allows a ghost load.
#14
Posted 24 July 2009 - 12:21 PM
If Benny agrees at a later date, I'll post the before and after pics, but not without his approval.
Oh...and now it allows a shadow round on the lifter for a total of 10 rounds (1 chambered, 8 in tube, and 1 on lifter)
Edited by Mark R, 24 July 2009 - 12:24 PM.
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#15
Posted 25 July 2009 - 11:10 AM
Mike
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#16
Posted 01 August 2009 - 04:16 PM
N
#17
Posted 18 January 2011 - 11:21 PM
I have an M1 Super 90 that I bought new in 2001 - I've shot many thousands of rounds through it with no functioning problems at all - mostly cheap lightweight birdshot but quite a few boxes of slugs and buckshot as well. Once I found out that this bolt mod existed I couldn't resist, and took the gun apart to see how it actually works. It took a few minutes to figure it out but I wasn't comfortable cutting pieces off my bolt carrier without really understanding what was going on.
So - if you already know this or don't care, ignore away, but if you'd like an explanation here's mine:
Its all about the shell carrier. On the trigger group you'll notice the shell carrier is attached to the "little black lever". This little black lever has a slight bump on it with a sharp edge. This sharp edge catches on the notches in the bolt carrier. When the bolt carrier starts moving forward, there is a shell on the carrier but the weight of the shell is possibly enough to keep the shell carrier from lifting up. So as the bolt moves forward, the front notch on the bolt carrier grabs the little black lever to give the shell carrier a little boost up to make sure the shell will get grabbed by the bolt. So far so good.
The rear notch in the bolt carrier does the same thing over again though - and since its trying to raise the shell carrier just as a round is being chambered, this will prevent the bolt from going forward because the shell on the carrier gets pinched. You can actually damage a shell this way - find out the hard way if you want. I did....leaked little buffering bits everywhere.
The easiest way to see how it works is to take the bolt assembly and trigger assembly out of the gun and slide them along against each other, watching that little black lever connected to the shell carrier. You may need a 3rd or 4th hand to keep the shell carrier down until the black lever forces it up to get the full effect though.
I hope this helps someone someday - and if not I will at least say that I'm glad I understand it now. It took longer to figure out how it worked and type this than it did to modify my bolt carrier - a dremel and some polishing compound and it was a done deal. Now my HD shotgun has 7+1+1 instead of just a measly 7+1 - or as I told my wife my gun is now operating at 112.5% capacity.
Austin
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