[DJM3808]

I'm looking for info on setting up electronic switches on some stop plates for man vs man shootoffs, Our club has the CED 8000 timers that have jacks to plug them in but I'm not finding where to get the sensors or switches. CED shows something on they're web site but it looks like for air soft only.

Would appreciate hearing from anyone with experience either buying or building them.

Thanks

[oldtrooper]

Have you considered cross-over stop poppers? Very easy to maintain, and shows a clear winner instantly.

[Flatland Shooter]

oldtrooper, on Feb 5 2009, 04:59 PM, said:

Have you considered cross-over stop poppers? Very easy to maintain, and shows a clear winner instantly.

I'm have not used the CED 8000 so I do not know what the stop plate setting are or if they can be changed. With a PACT is can set them for NO (normally open) or NC (Normally Closed).

For poppers (metal targets) I set the PACT to NC. I run phone wire cable from the PACT to the popper. One wire is attached to the base and the second to the popper. When the popper is hit, it opens the circuit and stops the timer. The bad part is a good hit may open the circuit and not drop the popper.

For my own use, I have a "stop plate" mounted on a wood post so that the plate can swing backwards just a hair when hit. The post has a deck screw in it behind the plate. Wires are attached to the plate and deck screw. The PACT is set for NO (normally open). When the plate is hit it swings back, tags the deck screw and closes the circuit stopping the timer.

I don't know if its necessary or not, but I soldered two small (1" x 1") plates to the end of the wires and so that the current does not need to flow through the entire popper or plate.

Cheap but effective.

Bill

[DJM3808]

We have the cross poppers, I'll explain the situation here a little better.

The cross poppers are set on hard ground, misses are bouncing off of the floor of the berm perhaps leaving the berm. More often than not, as the poppers are falling excited shooters are continuing to shoot at them, not realizing they have a hit or trying to drive them down (hosing) to beat the other shooter. If you hit the popper when it's half way down you are more than likley to launch at least a part of the bullet out side the confines of the berm. An electronic stop plate could be set at the right angle to trap the projectiles into a prepared surface.

Bill.
We have Pact timers as well, can you give me some more particulars; how are you connecting to the Pact?(type of connector) do you have the popper insulated from the base?

I'm wondering if a NO switch of some kind in back of the popper to close a circuit on impact? Can a timer be the power supply?

Thanks

This post has been edited by DJM3808: 05 February 2009 - 07:52 PM

[Flatland Shooter]

DJM3808, on Feb 5 2009, 08:31 PM, said:

We have Pact timers as well, can you give me some more particulars; how are you connecting to the Pact?(type of connector) do you have the popper insulated from the base?

I'm wondering if a NO switch of some kind in back of the popper to close a circuit on impact? Can a timer be the power supply?

I do not know what they called the connector but what I did was carry the timer into the local Radio Shack. They were able to fix me up. As for insulating the popper base, I never needed to do it. The small plates attached to the telephone wire are clamped with one to the base and one to the popper. I have a small "C" clamp like thingy (I have no idea which junk drawer I found it in) that clamps one to the popper. Clamping the second small plate to the popper base requires a 4" C-clamp and a small piece of wood. The wood is not an insulator. Its a spacer that allows the two plates to touch when the popper is upright.

Splatter has taken out the wire every once in a while, but with a little care in placement it doesn't happen often enough to be a major problem.

You could rig a NO switch to a popper, but depending where you set it, there will be a bit of a delay until the popper falls enough to trigger the switch. My concern would be someone hammering down the popper with extra shots to get it moving faster with the extra shots deflected over the berm. With the NC switch, any hit strong enough to move the popper instantly stops the clock.

With PACT, the timer does supply the power. I've used my homemade switch with well over 40' of phone wire. It may power more wire, but that's all I ever needed.

Let me know if there is any other questions I answer.

Bill