1050 Tips and Tricks
#1
Posted 27 August 2003 - 02:20 PM
Why buy a 1050 versus other presses:
Dillons, What's with the 1050
Dillon 650 vs. 1050
Dillon 550 or 650
Buying a new Press, upgrading from Square Deal B
1050 vs. Super 1050:
Dillon 1050 vs. Super 1050
Do you need the 1050 toolhead ratchet:
1050 toolhead ratchet, do I need that?
Dillon Powder Check on the RL 1050
1050 problems and solutions:
Primer Feed mechanism hints:
1050 primer feed problems
Dillon updates 1050 to 1050B, improving case indexing performance for pistol calibers.
Powder Check System:
Dillon Powder Check on the RL1050
Routine Maintenance:
New/old 1050 how far would you go? (tearing down the machine)
Original 1050 Support from Dillon:
Dillon 1050 no longer supported? Yes, it is!
You're shooting Steel like an A class shooter. Why are you shooting the Paper so slowly? ---- Dave Marques, Production Nationals, 2005
This is a game of high-speed precision. If you don't precisely plan what you want to happen, there's not much chance that it will. ---- Brian Enos, 2004
#3
Posted 11 September 2003 - 07:28 AM
#4
Posted 13 October 2004 - 03:24 PM
Dillon says use the .223 shell plate, not the 9mm. This is true. With the 9mm I had all kinds of primer feed problems. With the .223 shell plate the brass and primers line up perfectly.
The .223 shell plates if for Super Comp. or rimless .38.
The 9mm is for the +P brass. The +P rim has a slightly larger diameter.
Indy
#5
Posted 13 October 2004 - 03:41 PM
Add wieght to the top of the "primer feed rod." I just taped (duct tape of course) a 230 gr. .45 on top and now it works alot better.
I pushed the feed rod down about every 10th load. Towards the bottom I would check it about every other load. The primers were sure not to feed at least once and usually more for every 100 rounds. This was time consuming. Then I thought!!! (What a novel idea - use my brain). The primers aren't going down because of friction. They need more wieght to push past the friction of the primer getting caught on the side of the primer tube. So, I added wieght. It works alot better. I still check it when I get to the last few primers, but not always. I've loaded 1000's now and only once did the primers not feed down.
I recommendation for Dillon - make the primer feed rod heavier - lead? no that's not good for our health. titanium? yeah, but to expensive. Ok, cheap heavy steel would be fine. The plastic is too light.
#6
Posted 13 October 2004 - 05:24 PM
You may be getting some built up primer residue in the tube that needs cleaned out or the plastic tip on your primer magazine may have a burr or may need replaced. It should really feed every single primer without any added weight. Ive learned not to tighten the nut on top of the primer magazine "tight" but to leave it a little loose, mabey a quarter turn; and let the primer magazine "float"
Adam
#7
Posted 09 February 2005 - 01:33 PM
Dillon doesn't make the follower heavier in case you were to absentmindedly drop it down the primer magazine, which only happened to have a few primers in it. Heavier, in that case, isn't good.
be
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#8
Posted 11 February 2005 - 12:36 PM
benos, on Feb 9 2005, 07:33 PM, said:
Dillon doesn't make the follower heavier in case you were to absentmindedly drop it down the primer magazine, which only happened to have a few primers in it. Heavier, in that case, isn't good.
be
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Just the other day I was thinking must be the only fool with bullets taped to his primer follower
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#9
Posted 11 February 2005 - 01:43 PM
#10
Posted 05 January 2007 - 08:07 PM
Fact - the primer catcher sucks the BIG one.
So when I first got my 1050, I installed a funnel and a length of clear tubing to funnel the spent primers away, and it work fine. Just didn't look good.
After reading the 650 FAQ, I took a .223 case and cut off the head. Installed the clear plastic tubing on the cut end and then jammed the neck into the hole at the bottom of the frame.

Works well and looks good.
RePete.
Stercus Accidit = Latin for Shit Happens
Nice try = you suck spelled different
Proud member of the WTFDTSG club
#11
Posted 24 April 2008 - 08:07 AM
Is there a caliber conversion list for the 1050 any where? There is this http://www.brianenos...showtopic=11064 but it does not cover the 1050. I have a new 1050 in .223 and possibly want to load .40 s&w on it. It seems like I would not need that many different parts and most would be for the case feeder.
#12
Posted 22 December 2008 - 11:32 AM
Then use epoxy or JB weld to hold the rim to the bottom of the 1050, then slide on a piece of 3/8" clear plastic tubing & run it into a 5 gallon bucket. Works Great!!
#13
Posted 24 December 2008 - 07:01 AM
jvall1201, on Dec 22 2008, 01:32 PM, said:
Then use epoxy or JB weld to hold the rim to the bottom of the 1050, then slide on a piece of 3/8" clear plastic tubing & run it into a 5 gallon bucket. Works Great!!
I use it for large primers too.
Stercus Accidit = Latin for Shit Happens
Nice try = you suck spelled different
Proud member of the WTFDTSG club

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