Case Gauge Questions Should cases gauge if loaded long?
#1
Posted 19 August 2003 - 06:41 AM
-- mixed brass
-- precision 185grn & 200 grn
-- 4.4 grns of VV N320
-- WSRP
-- OAL 1.199-1.200
Probably a simple question for all you progresive guys (and gals) out there. Any help or advice would be greatly appreciated! Thanks...........
note: I did a several searchs on this already with no luck.
Vicksburg, MS.
team magnolia
"you boys gonna pull them pistols or just whistle dixie"?(Eastwood)
#2
Posted 19 August 2003 - 07:12 AM
your load is exactly the same (apart for primers, I use CCI) I load for 205 grs copper plated bullets in .40" SW.
You didn't mention you use the Factory Crimp Die, thus I would assume not.
Anyway, the case gauge is a real waste of ... rounds!
You'd better gauge all your bullets in your barrel, instead of a gauge.
I've discovered that a lot of bullets that won't pass the gauge test drop freely into the barrel chamber, thus are perfectly suited for my gun.
------------
I have strong opinions, that I like to discuss in a civil manner.
#3
Posted 19 August 2003 - 07:21 AM
If the gauge rejects good brass because the bullet is binding, you can either try another gauge or have the front of yours reamed to clear the bullets. If the problem is the brass, then the gauge is doing its job.
The trick with gauges is to sort through them until you have a gauge that agrees with the gun. I sorted through six gauges for one Super Open gun. A picky gauge sorts out false negatives, so you have too much practice ammo. An easy gauge give you false positives, so you have a jammamatic round in your match bin. If I could not get a gauge to agree, I'd rather have a picky than an easy gauge.
Save the rejected ammo and try them in your gun at a practice session. Just don't mix that brass with the others when you police it up.
#4
Posted 19 August 2003 - 07:43 AM
I hold my gauge I my hand. My gauge is likely 1.125 for 40 (SAMMII spec?). So my rounds stick out the bottom.
The gauges are useless for checking OAL. But, there are vital to ensure the brass has been resized.
Keep our city clean and safe. Do your part.
#5
Posted 19 August 2003 - 08:00 AM
Flex,
I to am holding the guage in my hand. It is an EGW which is marked 1.240? I have some factory rounds and they drop in all the way as does my sized (empty) brass. I am looking for a easy way to check my cases without having to take my barrel out everytime, but if that is what I must do..........? Could I have the size die screwed too far down or be putting too much crimp on ( how much is enough crimp)? My dies consist of: LEE EGW size die, Dillon powder die, LEE crimp die(std). Thanks for any help or suggestions!!!!!!!!!!
Vicksburg, MS.
team magnolia
"you boys gonna pull them pistols or just whistle dixie"?(Eastwood)
#7
Posted 19 August 2003 - 08:22 AM
I should have said "LEE seater die" not "crimp die". I have the standard set of Lee pistol dies from Midway. Only use the seater die. I bought a size die from EGW.
Vicksburg, MS.
team magnolia
"you boys gonna pull them pistols or just whistle dixie"?(Eastwood)
#8
Posted 19 August 2003 - 02:19 PM
Test and report back.
#9
Posted 19 August 2003 - 03:07 PM
One thing that I've learned after personally FUBARing many rounds out of a progressive, is when setting up for a run, to check and make sure the rounds are in spec at each station before I go to set up the next. It then becomes very obvious which station is causing the issue. When only checking rounds as they land in the bin, it can be tough to mentally reverse-engineer what's going on. This is especially true of chambering, since every station has the potential to cause it's own special issue to make a round not chamber properly.
[/Didactic Diversion]
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#10
Posted 19 August 2003 - 03:08 PM
I had the same problems until switching.
#11
Posted 19 August 2003 - 03:27 PM
Station 1 has the EGW/Lee undersized sizing die. Set so that it just barely touches the shell-plate when the handle is cycled all the way down.
?
Station 2 has the dillon powder die. Set so that it provides the minimum belling of the case mouth.
?
Station 3 Empty on the 650 (where the powder check would go).
?
Station 4 is the seating die AND crimp die from Lee.
?
I would highly suggest getting the Lee Factory Crimp Die (FDC) for station 5, then backing off the seating die in station 4 so that it only seats...doesn't crimp. Then the FDC in station 5 can removed the bell & size the finished round. (No need to crimp, just straighten out the belling. )
You can also take some of you loaded rounds that fail the gauge and flip them around...see if they start in the gauge backward.
Report back.
Keep our city clean and safe. Do your part.
#12
Posted 19 August 2003 - 05:07 PM
Using an old combination seat & crimp die is both a heretical misuse of a modern progressive reloading press and a major pain in the ass. It's often difficult to isolate the two tasks. It's much easier to back out the taper on the combination die, using it only for seating, and follow it with a taper crimp or "Factory Crimp" die in the next station.
IIRC, the case mouth of a loaded .40S&W round should be about .422" or .423".
if I had a rocket launcher... I'd make somebody pay
#13
Posted 19 August 2003 - 08:10 PM
Vicksburg, MS.
team magnolia
"you boys gonna pull them pistols or just whistle dixie"?(Eastwood)
#14
Posted 19 August 2003 - 08:40 PM
RLSMITH, on Aug 19 2003, 07:10 PM, said:
Did he explain *why*? I'm not sure why you wouldn't on an IPSC gun, but would on a Bullseye or Bianchi Cup gun. ....unless he thinks all IPSC guns have super-sloppy chambers by default.
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#15
Posted 19 August 2003 - 09:01 PM
First, lets forget the word "crimp". All we are looking to do with these straight walled auto-pistol rounds is to remove the belling from the powder station.
We aren't looking at the "crimp" to hold the bullet in the case. What holds the bullet in the brass is the huge (relatively speaking) surface area where the bullet and brass contact each other.
Your sizing die helps here quite a bit. The FDC makes sure all is well in the end.
And, as stated above, seating and crimping in different stations is the preferred method of IPSC shooters everywhere.
Keep our city clean and safe. Do your part.
#16
Posted 19 August 2003 - 09:04 PM
Keep our city clean and safe. Do your part.
#17
Posted 20 August 2003 - 08:12 PM
Vicksburg, MS.
team magnolia
"you boys gonna pull them pistols or just whistle dixie"?(Eastwood)
#18
Posted 22 August 2003 - 06:35 PM
The problem may be with your Precision bullets. One of my shooting companions shoots them exclusively and has noted that they don't gauge as well as a jacketed bullet. A jacketed bullet should be .400 where it extends past the brass. However, a lead or moly coated bullet is usually at least .401" in order to seal the bore and prevent blowby which can cause severe leading.
You might try loading a jacketed bullet and see if it gauges properly. My friend kinda cheats by using a 10mm case gauge which has the same case diameter (as the .40) but is approx. 1/4 Inch longer. This allows the brass to go all the way into the gauge if it is properly sized.
I also experienced a similar problem when casting and loading with Lee's tumble lube dies without sizing. If the bullet diameter is much over .401, you will have problems.
FWIW
Dennis
"The budget should be balanced, the Treasury should be refilled, public
debt should be reduced, the arrogance of officialdom should be
tempered and controlled, and the assistance to foreign lands should be
curtailed lest Rome become bankrupt. People must again learn to work,
instead of living on public assistance." - Cicero - 55 BC
#20
Posted 22 August 2003 - 08:01 PM
#21
Posted 25 August 2003 - 03:07 AM
Not to be argumentitive, but I don't understand your comment about "most .40s that shoot lead well are throated .403...."
My STI with a Briley match barrel isn't throated to anything other than factory specs (which are usually for jacketed bullets) nor my S&W model 610 (although it is chambered in 10 mm) and I have absolutly no problem with my cast bullets. For a case in point, I believe, with few exceptions, that commercial lead for the .40 are sized at .401 which is where I size my cast loads. And I don't have a problem either with my barrel or case guage when sizing.
I do applaud your comment on ammunition. Good ammo is step 1 to good shooting. If you are having to clear your jam-o-matic every few rounds because of ammo, shooting just isn't fun and you won't be competitive.
just my humble opinion
Dennis
"The budget should be balanced, the Treasury should be refilled, public
debt should be reduced, the arrogance of officialdom should be
tempered and controlled, and the assistance to foreign lands should be
curtailed lest Rome become bankrupt. People must again learn to work,
instead of living on public assistance." - Cicero - 55 BC
#22
Posted 31 August 2009 - 10:52 AM
lkytx, on Aug 22 2003, 10:01 PM, said:
Larry-
That was a great post. I had just started loading some lead for the first time and wondered what was going on as my cases gauged backwards but the bullet end stuck. Jacketed bullets were no problem. You answered my question precisely confirming my suspicions on crimp. (I'm using all Dillon dies on a 550)
#23
Posted 01 September 2009 - 07:34 PM
Bill

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