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Bolt Disassembly Remngton 700 Can someone give me a link??

#1 User is offline   MichiganShootist 

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Posted 24 November 2008 - 08:00 AM

I have a Remington 700 SS Mountain gun ---- in .30 - 06 that has been a faithful hunting partner for over 15 years. The round count is low because the darn thing seems to knock down deer, bear and even caribou with one shot.

The bad news is that I dawned on me as I was cleaning it this morning ----after another good year of whitetail hunting...(one shot to check zero and one shot each for two deer)... that I've never taken the bolt apart for cleaning.

Is this something I should attend to??? Is it difficult??? Do I need any special tool???? Can someone give me a link to instructions???


Thanks ------I hope this is the right forum to ask.

#2 User is offline   davidwiz 

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Posted 24 November 2008 - 09:26 AM

Wow! Google actually works! http://www.lyndenhug...disassembly.htm
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#3 User is offline   MichiganShootist 

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Posted 24 November 2008 - 09:55 AM

Thanks


The link helped but it wasn't totally accurate. My 700 bolt has no screw that is mentioned but.. I got it apart anyway.

It is as clean as a whistle after 15 years and many hunts.. I guess my liberal use of gun scrubber has worked.

#4 User is offline   JKSNIPER 

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Posted 24 November 2008 - 10:39 AM

View PostMichiganShootist, on Nov 24 2008, 11:55 AM, said:

Thanks


The link helped but it wasn't totally accurate. My 700 bolt has no screw that is mentioned but.. I got it apart anyway.

It is as clean as a whistle after 15 years and many hunts.. I guess my liberal use of gun scrubber has worked.


FWIW you should replace your firing pin spring while you have it apart.
After time they take a "set" ad will not measure out at the force they should .
This can increase your "lock time" and adversly affect precision accuracy.
I was advised by 2 differnet gunsmiths to replace it every year.
JK
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#5 User is offline   MichiganShootist 

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Posted 24 November 2008 - 10:50 AM

I'll do that ... thanks. Is replacing the pin hard to do???

BTW-- I always dry fire my rifles before storage to take the pressure off the firing pin spring.

#6 User is offline   Bret Heidkamp 

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Posted 24 November 2008 - 08:44 PM

Be sure to keep the trigger group clean while you are in there. Unfortunately, stock 700s have a confirmed defect of going *Bang* when changing from from "safe" to "fire" if the trigger group gets full of gunk.
Team CrossTac

#7 User is offline   MichiganShootist 

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Posted 25 November 2008 - 05:51 AM

You guys are starting to make this work.

The trigger group in this gun has never been touched... other than a good shot of Gun Scrubber and then blasted with my air compressor.

I guess it's time to figure out how to take that apart too.

#8 User is offline   Bret Heidkamp 

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Posted 25 November 2008 - 08:25 AM

Sorry!

If you've been spraying it with gunscrubber that is probably enough, but if you want to check your work just pull the barreled action out of the stock. The trigger group is nicely exposed. ;) Then just check the engagement surfaces (which you should be able to see) for gunk buildup.
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#9 User is offline   Boats 

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Posted 27 November 2008 - 06:19 AM

Did not look at the google link but I use a special 700 bolt disablemby tool. Makes the job easy and fast. The cost 25 bucks or so from the large mail order houses. Keep the ejector plunger clean too. Common 700 problem is it gets gunked up and won't eject, you can flick the case off with your fingers though. All of this advice is more for high volume shooters. 700's run good with little maintenance. Having said that most hunting rifle problems are from over oiling.

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#10 User is offline   JKSNIPER 

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Posted 27 November 2008 - 06:51 AM

View PostMichiganShootist, on Nov 25 2008, 07:51 AM, said:

You guys are starting to make this work.

The trigger group in this gun has never been touched... other than a good shot of Gun Scrubber and then blasted with my air compressor.

I guess it's time to figure out how to take that apart too.


DO NOT TAKE APART YOUR TRIGGER!
It is sealed with a proprietary sealent that reacts with a chemical they expose it to at the factory if it needs to go back for something.
ONLY REmington armorers are authorized to mess with the trigger otherwise if they don't see the reaction it means an unauth. person has been messing with the trigger and they won't touch and it voids any warranty.
Just remove it from the stock, spray gunscrubber to flush it out, apply compressed air to blow out any residual, then oil at contact points (metal to metal), wipe off any excess and reinstall.
JK
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#11 User is offline   Boats 

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Posted 29 November 2008 - 05:04 AM

I work on most things but leave the trigger on 700's alone. It's a tricky one. I have taken the whole group off most of my 700 match rifles at one time or another and shipped them to Neal Jones for adjustment. On lube believe it's best never to lube triggers. It changes the way they feel. Oil or most any lube is a dirt and dust magnet, gives inconsistent trigger pull from freshly lubed to dirty. Carb cleaner and the air hose is the way to go for triggers.

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#12 User is offline   sobrbiker883 

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Posted 23 December 2008 - 10:26 AM

Not the freshest topic, but here's my $.02-

-Change firing pin spring every 1K rounds or yearly if you don't de-cock when you store.
-For trigger groups, I clean with lighter fluid (zippo type) then blst with compressed air. Lighter fluid will leave trace lubrication where needed as opposed to leaving bare metal like other solvents.
You cannot miss fast enough to win a gunfight.

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