beretta 96 .40 s&w
Posted 16 February 2003 - 09:21 PM
Posted 16 February 2003 - 10:06 PM
Posted 16 February 2003 - 10:35 PM
Posted 17 February 2003 - 07:29 AM
To reduce the flip, use a 180 or 200 under titegroup. Start low and work up with a chrono, and watch the oal, keep it around max at 1.135 or so.
For minor loads, clays under a 155, 165, or 180 is real nice.
If you nee exact loads let us know.
BTW, the silver (inox) .40 extractors have some QC issues and have been known to break early on the elite 2's, the black ones are fine. If you have a silver extractor and plan to shoot a lot, get it switched for a black, double if it's a defense gun.
Others will poo-poo your Beretta, but you'll never have a jam...
Posted 17 February 2003 - 11:21 AM
I like 180's with about 3.5g of TiteGroup at an OAL of 1.135.
Steve A. has tried that and the minor Clays loads. He prefers the Clays for minor.
Steve would know. He is the "king of the soft load". He also likely sends more Beretta rounds down range than any other two Beretta shooters on the board combined.
Posted 17 February 2003 - 01:54 PM
Posted 17 February 2003 - 03:33 PM
to use a brigadier slide you will have to change slide stops thats all, but don't expect everything to be perfect if the gun is worn. Steve Anderson has a 96 Elite 2, i have a standard 96 FS i have shot both and the brigadier slide has less flip. but being on an alloy frame gun makes it recoil more. skate tape will help some with your problem.
i honestly don't like the idea of 40 in a 9mm gun, (glock beretta) and a few other manufactures. HK and SIG made bigger guns for the more powerful round when needed, (hk USP was designed around the 40 cartrige. and sig made a 229 instead of the 228 and didn't try to put a 40 in the smaller gun.
for plinking aim for about a 150 PF in my opinion, if you carry the gun. if not go for 135 ish PF.
for full power i find the 15# spring to be great. keeps the gun from battering also.
Posted 18 February 2003 - 05:14 PM
Also do you recomend using wolf springs and a speed bump trigger to clear up some of the creep.
Also another thought was if I do buy a ported barrel(I have a fire dragon barrel I'm thinking about) how many fps and muzzle energy do you think I'll lose.
(Edited by sas at 5:15 pm on Feb. 18, 2003)
Posted 18 February 2003 - 06:07 PM
If you still have problems with "muzzel jump" after going to those softball loads...you will need to work on your grip and stance.
Those loads are super soft. With proper technique, you shouldn't hardly have much flip to worry about. No need to go to a ported barrel.
Posted 18 February 2003 - 07:30 PM
What kind of shooting are you doing with this gun. a better investment than the barrel would be a tape or book to show grip and stance, flip happens, letting the gu n come back to where it was is what you want to do.
http://www.langdontactical.com the speed bump trigger does not effect ANYTHING in the trigger pull, it just shortens reset. Have Ernest do atleast a level one, probabally level 2 trigger job, its about the same price of the barrel, and will do a lot better job.
I use wolf springs get a variety and see what you like with what load,
something else if your not going to compete get atleast a SS guide rod, (about $20) or a Tungsten (heavier but more costly)
Lastly, a standard 96 does not have enough grip roughness to hold it in place, get burner grips, or simply use skate tape to give a better grip.
if you do all of this, you'll have a gun set up similar to the ones that have been winning matches all over the country. with the light load your basically shooting a fat 9mm.
Posted 18 February 2003 - 09:34 PM
I made A class with my 96 E2 and those softball loads. You don't need a ported barrel shooting minor.
Let us know how it works out.
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