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Glock Trigger Job Links on the Web
vincent:
Here are the some links to Glock Trigger job information:
Trigger pull chart with various part combinations
Trigger job detail links (this link is dead, I'll see if I can dig up the original...KF)
$0.25 trigger job
Dale Rhea dremeling
General information
Glocktalk
Glockmeister
Additional info copied from a thread on GlockTalk describing the addition of an internal over-travel stop on a Glock.
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Limiting overtravel is simple for $5 or less. Buy a plastic washer, some 4-minute two-part epoxy, and a razor blade from the local home improvement store.
Cut the plastic washer to make a block that fits vertically into the aft part of the left side window of the trigger housing, where the left wing of the trigger bar resides. The plastic will stop the trigger bar from moving when the left wing of the trigger bar contacts the plastic block.
Assemble the pistol and test dry-fire to ensure the block is not too thick. If it's too thick, sand it thinner. If it's too thin, go spend a few cents on a thicker washer.
Once the thickness of the washer is determined, mix up some epoxy, daub a bit on the plastic block and trigger housing with a toothpick, and let it cure.
Presto chango, you now have reduced the overtravel in your Glock. If you can't understand this description with five minutes or less of looking at your trigger housing/trigger bar interaction then don't waste your time. Go spend $20 or whatever the gimmick will cost.
Cut the plastic washer to make a block that fits vertically into the aft part of the left side window of the trigger housing, where the left wing of the trigger bar resides. The plastic will stop the trigger bar from moving when the left wing of the trigger bar contacts the plastic block.
Assemble the pistol and test dry-fire to ensure the block is not too thick. If it's too thick, sand it thinner. If it's too thin, go spend a few cents on a thicker washer.
Once the thickness of the washer is determined, mix up some epoxy, daub a bit on the plastic block and trigger housing with a toothpick, and let it cure.
Presto chango, you now have reduced the overtravel in your Glock. If you can't understand this description with five minutes or less of looking at your trigger housing/trigger bar interaction then don't waste your time. Go spend $20 or whatever the gimmick will cost.
fishnfst:
Be very careful with this modification. Placing a block or shim in the left side of the housing where the trigger bar rides disables the drop safety in the glock. The reason that slot is there is to prevent the trigger bar from bouncing downwards in the event of an impact and letting the striker slip off. The shim also negates your firing pin block. The plunger that blocks the firing pin will remain depressed also with this modification.
Flexmoney:
fishfst,
You are warning about being careful limiting the forward travel of the trigger with shims, correct?
The info that vincent posted is for the rearward travel of the trigger.
vincent:
Just a follow-up. Using the info provided by the original links, the following trigger modifications were performed on a G17 (and only these - all parts stock Glock unless noted):
1) 3.5 lb connector
2) Dale Rhea trigger bar trigger spring move (the bar must be heated to dark cherry red which is a LOW temp - if it gets orange it's too hot and won't anneal. The new hole was drilled just over existing hole.)
3) Dale Rhea firing pin lightening - shaft reduction and head cuts (minimal material removed from "heel" - the steep 45 degree angle cut shown in the article produced occasional doubles).
4) 4 lb Wolff reduced power firing pin spring
5) Debur and polish all contacting trigger mechanism surfaces
6) Jim Brown overtravel stop (fitted piece of aluminum square rod + krazy glue. The epoxy I bought didn't stick to the trigger housing very well and eventually broke loose). I'm thinking about drilling and pinning this stop into place just for good measure.
They immediately produced a no-bull 3.25 lb peak trigger pull on an RCBS trigger pull gauge. After about 500+ rounds of S&B 115 FMJ it is down to ~3 lb with no light strikes or doubling (and S&B is known for hard primers). The overtravel and corresponding reset distance is a bit shorter and quite nice. If you reload and use soft primers then you might be able to tweak another 1/2lb off and get good strikes, but you would be dedicated to soft primer ammo. I can live with 3 lbs and then I can shoot whatever's on sale. In case anyone was wondering, NO safeties were affected.
PS: As fishnfst noted, don't mess with the forward travel section of the trigger housing "window". The narrowed section in the front is the "drop safety" for the trigger bar and any mods here could disable it. It's just not worth the minor "take-up" reduction.
PPS: Amateur gunsmithing can lead to broken and/or unsafe guns. When in doubt send your gun off to a good Glock gunsmith like Matt at Custom Glock Racing (before you wreck it - it will cost you LESS in the long run.
This post has been edited by Flexmoney: 24 January 2007 - 07:56 AM
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