Dillon and Reloading FAQs Subforum
Posted 28 March 2010 - 02:18 PM
Here's what I've found:
1) I ride the shellplate, LIGHTLY, with my left index finger as it indexes. I find that if I put my fingertip on the shell plate just ahead of the round going from sta 3 to sta 4, it smooths things out so that the shell plate doesn't snap and spill powder.
2) The 1st powder drop of the day is always over by a couple of 1/10ths gr. I just pull that shell from sta. 4 and weigh and adjust the charge by hand before proceeding. In fact, I measure the charge of the 1st couple just to make sure.
3) If the cartridge feed tube isn't straight, the cartridge adapter will be side-loaded and will eventually move far enough out of shape to cause brass to hange up in the cartridge bushing and not drop. My case feed support post needs to be adjusted in order to make the case feed tube line up straight with the case feed adapter. For now, I've got it jury-rigged with a zip-tie. But when I add a case feeder, that post will need to be bent to line up.
4) Develop a feel for the thing. Know what additional feel each station adds to the overall sequence. You'll know when somethings wrong just by feel. I had some .380 brass mixed in with my 9mm, it was easy to spot just by feel alone.
5) The die and powder drop adjustments are very consistent. And, they are easily as accurate as what I was getting from my old Rockchucker. I think a careful setup in the beginning will pretty much leave me free to keep my eyes on the things that CAN go wrong with this press.
-------- The places my eyes NEED to be are:
1) Powder drop: look at the poweder in the cartridge on sta. 4 EVERY time as you place a bullet on it.
2) Case Feed: look to make sure the brass dropped from the case feet bushing and the next one is
resting on the shoulder of the case feed bushing. This is a good reminder to keep brass
in the tube if you don't have the case feed option. And, it will ensure you spot jams
BEFORE they become a bigger problem.
3) Powder/Primer follower: as long as you keep an eye on these, you can pick a good time to refill.
4) Primers: I case every round in 100rnd boxes, if for no other reason, just because I want to see
that every primer is fully seated. In 1,500 rounds, I found 1 that I apparently didn't
These are things that I seem to have had to learn on my own. Some old-timers here are probably thinking "duh!". But, I hope this post might save someone else a little time and worry.
Posted 21 May 2013 - 01:20 PM
Sounds like a good plan. Thanks Kenney!!
We are just getting fully setup to reload here with our new RL550B. We will run 9mm and then 40 S&W.
Researching various powder loads for the 9mm we plan to use Winchester 231 powder in first 9mm production run. With the long (8 weeks) wait for the 550 to deliver(bought thru Brian) I put my nose to the ground and laid in a supply of brass( 9mm and 40 S&W), bullets(115 grain 9mm RN in clad and plated-both flat base and hollow base);(180 gr 40 cal RN plated FB) Federal SPP's primers and Win 231 and Titegroup powders.
We're taking it easy and working hard on developing good habits and practices.
Perhaps we will have some good and practical tips to share with the other "newbies" in a couple of months. Experience is a very fine teacher as we all know.
These threads have been very helpful in our thinking and planning.
Posted 23 August 2013 - 09:13 PM
I have a Dillon 650 that I have had for over a year with no problems (started on a 550 over 10 years ago). Recently, I have started having problems with getting a consistent OAL in several calibers. I use Redding Comp Seaters. The problem first started with using factory reject bullets I get from a local manufacturer, but I have tried using new brass and new bullets with the same result. The seater dies have been thoroughly cleaned and properly adjusted. Toolhead is a CNC machined toolhead that is achored with set screws. I am at a loss. Any help will be greatly appreciated!!
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