Remington 11-87 shortened barrel
#1
Posted 12 April 2002 - 01:10 PM
#2
Posted 12 April 2002 - 01:56 PM
I don't know if you will need to drill the ports out or not. The first step should be to put about 200 rounds through it.
I followed the advice offered here. I detail stripped my new gun, clean out all the cosmoline (sp?), then did an extended range session...shooting at least 200 rounds. (Walmart value-paks are $16/100)
Some of the experienced shotgunner will likely chime in on the gas ports...in teh mean time, blast away (it is fun).
#3
Posted 12 April 2002 - 06:57 PM
#4
Posted 14 April 2002 - 01:07 AM
Now the 20-20 hindsight bit.
You should never modify an un-shot gun, not not not ever. I always check fire a new firearm, if the factory stuffed up you now have no come back on Remington. The other reason is you have a reference point to which you can go back. I see so many people that can't wait to get the dremel, hacksaw etc to a new piece. Always shoot it and check, THEN chop away.
Happy Shooting
#5
Posted 21 April 2002 - 07:45 AM
#6
Posted 21 April 2002 - 09:03 AM
I do realize that I should have shot the gun before modifying it. I got it below wholesale but it came with a rifled slug barrel. I traded the barrel for a vent rib and could not resist the ergs to start chopping away.
Thanks for the info on the gas ports. I thought I was crazy when I bought a few drills in the .07-.08 range and they slid right in the holes. The gun currently has factory size gas ports and runs light loads sporadically, sometimes it will feed everyone out of the tube and then the next time won't eject the shell. Possibly ammo? Anyhow if I have time this week I will bring the barrel into the store and find out what drills are close to the original size and work from there. Thanks for the help. Charles
#7
Posted 21 April 2002 - 10:53 AM
I have found a second O ring to help my 1187 Turkey gun. It will run selected 1oz loads perfectly otherwise unmodified.
P.D.
#8
Posted 08 June 2002 - 11:45 PM
#9
Posted 09 June 2002 - 12:29 AM
just put another one of those black rubber rings over the mag tube, there should be one there already.
I assume it helps prevent gas loss in the process, and definately helps.
P.D.
#10
Posted 09 June 2002 - 08:30 PM
#11
Posted 09 June 2002 - 11:44 PM
I heard about it on another BBS where there is a guy who works for Remington posts. There was a discussion about 11-87’s working with light loads. Even thought my 11-87 Police works with my 1 oz. 3+ dram payloads I copied the thread for future reference. I will post a few of those posts as they were on the BBS below.
All posts by REMGunsmith
“The 1187 police 18" Rifle Sights (Tritium)is my choice for home defense, but there's one problem with them. They will not dependably cycle light loads. The answer is something Remington came up with for the 1187 super mag 3 1/2" gun. It's called the activator, all it really is is a stainless ring that's put in front of the regular gas system. I have tseted it out of mine with great success! (Beats having to make gas ports larger perminately altering the bbl. The company puts the activator on all the 14" entry guns now so that they can be used for training as well as actual use”
“First of all let me say that the activator was designed for use on the 1187 Super Mag shotgun purely by ACCIDENT!
Last year a number of 1187 gas cylinders were machined short, when the barrels were fired in the y FUNCTIONED FLAWLESSLY with all ammo they tested. So the engineers designed a stainless steel ring that is put on in front of the original gas system giving the same amount of standoff. I'll try to get a part number for you”
“To Order The Activator Part # 1187 Super Mag Barrel Seal Activator
Part # F201598. It doesn't seem to matter which way that you put it on, it works fine either way. Call Consumer Services Department at 1-800-243-9700, Monday-Friday, 9am-5pm EST. But you didn't hear it from me!!!!!!!”
He suggests saying that you "lost" the activator from your 3.5” 11-87 supermag and need a new one when calling. He seemed to think they might be unwilling to just sell them and would want to know who told you and why do want them? I haven’t bothered getting one yet but will probably eventually.
Neal in AZ
#12
Posted 14 June 2002 - 12:14 PM
#13
Posted 30 June 2002 - 11:42 AM
TNShooter - Do you mean .120 and.160 (instead of .0120 and .0160)?
#14
Posted 01 July 2002 - 11:30 AM
It seems to me the way this works is to basically partially unlock the bolt so the inital (softer) blast of gas doesn't have to burn up as much of it's energy on overcoming the initial hump of starting to unlock the action while recocking the hammer and pushing the mass of the bolt and carrier. This activator gives the lighter shells a headstart in unlocking the action so there is more inertia/recoil to cycle the aciton.
#15
Posted 09 August 2002 - 12:25 PM
http://www.remington...s/partsinfo.htm
select 11-87 supermag barrel seal activator
BTW, CDNN has 21" 11-87 barrels for $100-- These are police barrels and not threaded for chokes.
(Edited by shred at 12:44 pm on Aug. 9, 2002)
#16
Posted 09 August 2002 - 06:14 PM
Another item that can't be overlooked is proper lube. The mag tube where your gas system cycles should be heavily lubed with Remoil spray, Fastex, what ever your poison is. Make sure it is a lube that resists heat and pressure. The inside of the action needs to stay lubed as well. Not to insult anyones intelllliggggennce, but I have fixed alot of broken guns on the range with a squirt or two of lube.
If you are using a extended mag tube with clamp, make sure the clamp isn't torquing on your gas system. The distance from the barrel to the tube should be the same front to rear. ie parrallel... I can't spell but you get the drift. The only clamp I have seen so far that works correctly is the Clark Custom Gun clamp.
By the way I shoot 1 oz 2 3/4 Dram Equ. loads... Easy shooting and easy on the gun.
KyleL
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