Edited by Maks_H, 29 July 2012 - 08:22 AM.
Narrow vs. wide front sight
#1
Posted 29 July 2012 - 04:08 AM
#2
Posted 29 July 2012 - 05:52 AM
The above observations somewhat change if using an all black front sight. I prefer a little more gap on each side in that case.
#3
Posted 29 July 2012 - 08:39 AM
Mike
#4
Posted 29 July 2012 - 11:46 PM

For me, it's a perfect balance of a narrower sight & not too much daylight on the sides. Another option would be to use a narrower rear sight (.125/.130" notch). My only issue with that, is that I don't track the sights as fast with a narrower rear notch.
#5
Posted 30 July 2012 - 01:04 AM
Attached Files
#6
Posted 30 July 2012 - 07:29 PM
Edited by polizei1, 30 July 2012 - 07:30 PM.
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#7
Posted 01 August 2012 - 05:49 PM
What's your rear notch Maks? That wide setup looks real similar to mine.
Edited by DoubleL, 01 August 2012 - 05:52 PM.
"See now, if you're shootin all A's you're going to damn slow. But if you're killin all the white ones, well, you need to slow the hell down."
So that's my problem!
#8
Posted 01 August 2012 - 08:10 PM
You'll be more accurate with a tighter sight picture... up to a point. But you'll be slower. You can be accurate with a loose sight picture too, if you train yourself to be patient.
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#9
Posted 02 August 2012 - 01:24 AM
#10
Posted 02 August 2012 - 11:00 AM
I haven't come across anything in the pistol world but when I shot smallbore rifle I read a paper on front round apature size. It stated the most accurate image is when the round hole appears almost 50% larger than the bullseye. That means 25% space on each side. The MIT shooting team brought the article to a match. Those geeks kicked our butts!
I also find it easier and faster to aquire and control a smaller front sight. Probably because of less perceived wobble.
I bet you could investigate the physics of how light behaves like a wave. This would explain that a smaller gap has a larger ratio of diffracted light adding to alignment error. You do the math.
A FUNNER EXPLANATION:
I was told that we are used to seeing where peoples' eyes are looking. We can pick up the smallest differences in the whites of someones eyes. It's like when you can tell your date is staring at the piece of spinach in your teeth. Or, when your date picks up that you're looking at something else other than their face. Hoping it's not a body part of another woman.
Women may even be better than this than us, possibly explaining some of their mind reading abilities.
DNH
#11
Posted 02 August 2012 - 02:48 PM
"See now, if you're shootin all A's you're going to damn slow. But if you're killin all the white ones, well, you need to slow the hell down."
So that's my problem!
#12
Posted 07 August 2012 - 10:16 AM
You'll be more accurate with a tighter sight picture... up to a point. But you'll be slower. You can be accurate with a loose sight picture too, if you train yourself to be patient.
That sums it up quite well.
I find that you can be notably faster when working with an acceptable sight picture at closer ranges, if you run a narrow front post and/or wider rear notch.
For longer shots, you have to train yourself to have visual patience and focus on the tippity-tip-top of the front post. Though it takes some work, you can still be very accurate at very fast speeds on these long/tight/precise shots as well.
#13
Posted 07 August 2012 - 10:27 AM
#14
Posted 28 September 2012 - 05:43 AM
#15
Posted 28 September 2012 - 05:59 AM
That is pretty good. I hate getting into too many measurements, as there are other variables at play. I like to go by what it "looks" like. Here, you have a left light bar that is about 25% of the rear notch, then about 50% of the rear notch is the front sight, then a right light bar that is another 25%.
Light - Front Sight - Light
--25%-- ----50%---- --25%--
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#16
Posted 28 September 2012 - 08:05 AM
I experimented with .080, 0.085, 0.090, and .100 over the past six months.
I used to believe that for me the narrow sight was best, but in my case, personally, that was wrong. I have done so much better with the wider front sight.
My vision is corrected with contact lenses. I can see the serrations on a .080 sight with no problem at all. My vision is not the problem. I am able to tell when a wider front sight if off center MUCH faster than a narrow sight.
My theory: Take a wide object and thin object and put them in the same hallway, centered. A super thin object is harder to tell when slightly off center. The large object is gonna be closer to the walls of the hallway, revealing error in alignment faster/easier.
Now I do agree you can go too far to each extreme. My finding are with a .110 rear bomar notch. My accuracy has gone through the roof (compared to before) by switching to a .100/.110 set up. Keep in mind these are just my personal findings.
I don't necessary buy the "I can see small plates better" argument either. I can clear plate racks shot for shot from 20 yards if I do my part. I sight my gun is so that the top of the front blade is the point of impact, like most people, I presume. Therefore I am only bisecting half of my intended target anyway, unless there is some absurd hold over/under.
My new findings have also got me wanting to re-evaluate my HATRED for all things fiber. I realize I was using too thing of of a blade before, so the glow was just overpowering the outline of the front sight, which should be used as the final authority in sight alignment/shot calling.
Edit: What is "narrow?" That's all relative to the shooter and his/her eyes, in my opinion.
.100 in a .110 notch is wide to many, but the Sevigny front on my Glock is fat as hell at .115. I actually wanna get rid of the .150 rear notch and try a .125/.130 rear notch.
Edited by JaeOne3345, 28 September 2012 - 08:18 AM.
#17
Posted 28 September 2012 - 11:21 AM
.125/.125
.09/.125
.09/.135
.100/.145
.125/.145
.100/.133
.100/.112
.100/.110
and i'm so tired of it.
recently i just jumped from a .100/.133 to .100/.110(on my limited gun) mainly because the sight picture on my singlestack(.100/.112) seemed to work so well for me. great hits and fast acquisition. I shot SS for a while and did well with it, jumped back to limited and started getting far more c/d's so i thought i'd tighten up the sight picture. have had one practice with it so far and theres a ton more A's but it feels slower - much slower. I think i need to spend some time with it but .100/.115 is probably about right for me.
#18
Posted 28 September 2012 - 12:16 PM
#19
Posted 28 September 2012 - 02:47 PM
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#20
Posted 29 September 2012 - 04:48 PM
#21
Posted 09 October 2012 - 06:16 AM
This is what i did anyway. Takes no time to set up and execute and then you know exactly what you need to see.
#22
Posted 09 October 2012 - 08:31 AM
#23
Posted 09 October 2012 - 08:34 AM
Like .100 and the stock width STI rear think it's 125. Works better for me with distance shots in close is point anyway. Wider front and opening up the rear didn't work out for me.
STI rear is .110. Standard Bomar notch.
I went to a .110 front (had a .100), to go along with my .110 Rear. Both Infinity. I like it a lot.
#24
Posted 12 October 2012 - 02:17 PM
#25
Posted 12 October 2012 - 03:45 PM
I believe, and BE can confirm, Rob L, will change out his front sight depending on the ranges at different stages in a match.
That seems like exponentially more work over what xarmyguy is talking about.
I just learned over time what each sight picture meant at each range. If you run a narrow front and wide rear, you'd be surprised at what you can get away with...
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