12 replies to this topic

[Luv2rideWV]

Ok, I've bought the video and enjoyed doing my first action job on my S&W 625. I really want to lighten the action up some more without really hurting reliability. If I install the reduced power spring kit and screw the unaltered strain screw in all the way, what kind of results will I get? Lighter? Still ignite factory ammo? Federal primers only?

[seanc]

I put a reduced power kit with no bending/clipping/shortening of strain screw in a 627 and it was perfectly reliable with factory ammo.

You should notice a pretty nice improvement in trigger feel with the wolfe kit without sacrificing any reliability.

[Waltermitty]

My experience with the setup you describe was an improved trigger pull and 100% reliability.

[Luv2rideWV]

Thanks guys, and AMEN!!! Anyone else with similar experience?

Here is the next part of this question: Which rebound spring? Or is that something that is going to vary or need matched up?

Edited by Luv2rideWV, 13 July 2012 - 02:00 PM.

[Steve in Allentown PA]

I recently finished doing my first trigger job on a 625 so I'm no expert but I found that the rebound spring weight is directly related not only to the mainspring weight but also to the degree to which friction of the various internal parts and frame can be reduced. I'm running an 11 lb Wolff rebound spring now but could go even lighter. However, it provides a solid reset and until I lower the mainspring weight by another pound I won't change it.

[Steve in Allentown PA]

. . . it was perfectly reliable with factory ammo.

My experience with the setup you describe was an improved trigger pull and 100% reliability.

Specifically, what brand(s) of factory ammo are you guys using?

[Luv2rideWV]

. . . it was perfectly reliable with factory ammo.

My experience with the setup you describe was an improved trigger pull and 100% reliability.

Specifically, what brand(s) of factory ammo are you guys using?

Steve, about the only factory ammo my 625 PC will see is whatever carry ammo I buy to keep around the house or carry because I often carry whatever it is I'm competiting with the most. I've probably had it for two months and have about 1,000 + reloads through it (200 gr LSWC over 4.2 gr of Clays and CCI primers). So far the only carry ammo has been almost a box of Hornady Critical Defense. However, I'm not married to that particular load; it's just difficult these days to go to the store and find the same box of premium ammo every time, thus the desire to fire anything reliably. Also, everybody says not to use reloads for self defense due to legal issues.

I wouldn't mind going to a Speer Gold Dot or a Remington Golden Sabre the next time. I have always liked the Speer, and the Remington is often on sale with different on-line retailers.

My new batch of reloading compontnets includes a 200 gr bullet with a round profile and a flat point (really a 45 Colt bullet), Clays, and Federal primers (because that was in stock). That bullet bullet should work well in the revolver.

Previously, I played around with a shorter strain screw, and it felt like it was about half the weight of the stock pull, but I had a lot of misfires with those CCI primers. I put the stock strain screw back in, and the pull is real heavy (but smooth). When I have it apart to put the reduced power spring kit in it next week, I might polish a little more on the rebound slide, too. The first time I had it apart, I tried reduced rebound springs, and the gun wouldn't even reset, so the trigger work helped. The JM dvd was great, and I proceeded carefully.

To test the gun out, I'll finish off the reloads with the CCI primers and the nine rounds of Hornady stuff.

[Steve in Allentown PA]

. . . it was perfectly reliable with factory ammo.

My experience with the setup you describe was an improved trigger pull and 100% reliability.

Specifically, what brand(s) of factory ammo are you guys using?

Sorry about that. My question was directed at seanc amd Waltermitty. I've got my 625 running pretty well with Federal primers. Now I have to work on getting it 100% with factory Remington and Winchester. My intention is to have one set of springs to use with my Federal primed reloads and another set of springs to use with the harder primers used in factory Remington and Winchester ammo. I'd be most interested to know if the Wolff reduced power mainspring will ignite these factory rounds.

[Waltermitty]

. . . it was perfectly reliable with factory ammo.

My experience with the setup you describe was an improved trigger pull and 100% reliability.

Specifically, what brand(s) of factory ammo are you guys using?

I haven't purchased much factory ammo for these guns. I haven't had failures to fire with any brand. I reload my own using Federal primers.

[practical_man]

. . . it was perfectly reliable with factory ammo.

My experience with the setup you describe was an improved trigger pull and 100% reliability.

Specifically, what brand(s) of factory ammo are you guys using?

Sorry about that. My question was directed at seanc amd Waltermitty. I've got my 625 running pretty well with Federal primers. Now I have to work on getting it 100% with factory Remington and Winchester. My intention is to have one set of springs to use with my Federal primed reloads and another set of springs to use with the harder primers used in factory Remington and Winchester ammo. I'd be most interested to know if the Wolff reduced power mainspring will ignite these factory rounds.

Steve,
The Wolff mainspring works fine for Winchester and Remington factory in my revo if you have the strain screw turned all the way in. Bear in mind that rebound slide spring and mainspring forces shoul be balanced for the best trigger pull.

- John

[Pete Whyte]

How do you know when the rebound spring & the mainspring is ballanced properly?

[Waltermitty]

How do you know when the rebound spring & the mainspring is ballanced properly?

It's mostly personal preference, but at a minimum the return spring must reset the trigger against the mainspring pressure. Jerry M. Likes a strong return spring. When he's going at top speed it keeps the trigger going as fast as he is. On the other hand, the lightest possible trigger pull is achieved when all springs are at the functional minimum.

[JFlowers]

I shoot two 625s. My primary has a Carmoney race job.... lighten trigger, bobbed hammer, the works. Nice light smooth trigger and 100% with well seated Federal Primers My backup has a Wolff light spring kit and a nice internal polish job. The trigger is heavier but still smooth. I leave it that way because it will work with factory ammo. That way between the two guns I can handle just about any situation I find myself in when shooting an away match.