11 replies to this topic

[Nuke531]

I put a short flat trigger in my Limited .40 I had some issues at first but worked through them for the most part. It seems my original trigger bar with the grind on it for the old trigger return spring does not work. So I had to gut my Stock I production gun to borrow the trigger bar, this fixed most of my problems. I was able to set my pre travel and over travel and lock them down. I ran about 200 rounds through it with no issues, but when I was dry firing I noticed the hammer would fall hitting firing pin and seems to bounce back up some (not going to half cock). Also at times after I pull the trigger and keep it pulled back I cock the hammer and it will lock fully to the rear with trigger pulled. Here are some further information on my Limited I just had a EGW sear and hammer put in less then 1000 rounds ago I am running the heaviest trigger return spring with the lightened plunger spring. All parts are polished to a mirror finish. Does any one have any ideas? I just ran out of .40 and have some bullets on order to run it again and see what happens. When I ran the 200 rounds through it I noticed it doing all these odd things the next day.

[Skydiver]

Did you under cut the EGW hammer so that it has the same shape of the stock hammer where it rubs against the trigger bar while the hammer is down? I believe photog has as thread with pictures of where and how to do the undercut, but basically use the stock hammer as a template.

[Nuke531]

I will have to ask the friend who fitted my hammer and sear. When I had the old trigger in with the new hammer and sear I don’t ever remember it doing what it’s doing now. I also had to set my pre-travel pretty long to get positive resets, and over-travel I was able to set tight. I also polished the back half of the trigger bar where it makes contact with my sear to a mirror finish but did not remove any of the material just polished. I did buy a new trigger bar from Henning to replace the one out of my Stock I. I am kind of dreading doing a polish on it, it’s rough. I am hoping Henning comes out with his own trigger bar.

[CHA-LEE]

You need to get that thing to a qualified gunsmith to fix.

[Nuke531]

I forgot to mention my friend is a certified smith. I did put the brand new trigger bar in to see if it would make a difference and it will not even engage the sear. On a new trigger bar is there fitting that needs to be done?

[Skydiver]

I forgot to mention my friend is a certified smith. I did put the brand new trigger bar in to see if it would make a difference and it will not even engage the sear. On a new trigger bar is there fitting that needs to be done?

Huh? That (probably) means that the current sear leg has been trimmed too short (probably in an attempt to make as short a reset as possible).

I've recently picked up a brand new trigger bar and factory sear and not have any problems about the trigger bar reaching the sear. In the past, I've picked up a new trigger bar, and an EGW sear and also had no problems. In fact, I had to trim down the EGW sear leg a bit to get a shorter reset.

[Nuke531]

Thanks for the reply, I have enough pieces and parts to put my old trigger back on the original trigger bar and I will try that and see what happens. My issues don't seem to be a safety issue since I am not having any type of hammer follow. The hammer just seems to hit the firing pin and bounce from time to time while dry firing. It is not falling to half cock, because when this does happen I have to pull back on hammer and I can feel the half cock notch engage. I do have a 13lb hammer spring in it I'm wondering if I should try a 14 or 15. I am not concerned with a super light trigger pull. I went with the short flat trigger so I can get a beter reach on it.

[Skydiver]

EGW sear, or factory sear? If EGW, see my post #2 above.

[Nuke531]

I searched for the post with pics from photog I wasn't able to locate it. The sear & hammer was from EGW but it wasn't the prepped sear and hammer from Henning. Thanks for the post I'll keep looking.

[Skydiver]

My fault. I thought it was photog, but it was actually eastonx7. Here's the thread: http://www.brianenos...howtopic=114039

[Nuke531]

Skydiver thanks for the link , thats to the tee what mine is doing except it only happens maybe every once in ten dry fires and it does't bounce enough to make it to the half cock. The pictures helped out a lot. Thanks for your time finding the link I owe you one.

[CHA-LEE]

I hate to say it but if your "Certified Smith" can't figure it out then he does not sound very competent. Find a different gunsmith that has extensive EAA/Tanfo experience. This stuff isn't rocket science but you do need experience with doing trigger jobs on these guns to effectively troubleshoot and fix this kind of stuff. Asking for "Opinions" on a forum isn't the best way to solve your issue. It is really not too hard to screw up a trigger job on these guns and disable the safety function or turn it into a full auto death machine. Do you really want to risk having these significant safety/functionality issues trying to figure it out yourself?