Gearing up to shoot Irons!
#1
Posted 23 June 2012 - 08:28 AM
I currently have the rifle zero'ed at 100yds. Been reading online about RIBZ, IBZ, and various other sight in methods. What does everyone recommend for a 3gun zero? Most of our local shoots are a max of 250 yards. I am heading to the range today plan on re-zeroing at 200 and seeing where that puts my hits at 25-50yds.
#2
Posted 24 June 2012 - 01:11 PM
I tried a 300 yard zero too but I didn't like holding under for the 100-200 shots. I guess I would maybe consider a different zero for different matches but all the matches I've shot are 95% 200 and in.
Edited by Ten-X, 24 June 2012 - 01:35 PM.
#3
Posted 24 June 2012 - 01:14 PM
Edited by Ten-X, 24 June 2012 - 01:34 PM.
#4
Posted 24 June 2012 - 02:53 PM
“Speed without accuracy is useless, as is accuracy without speed and both together may not suffice without power.”
Jeff Cooper
Patrick's YOU TUBE
#5
Posted 24 June 2012 - 04:55 PM
I currently have the rifle zero'ed at 100yds. Been reading online about RIBZ, IBZ, and various other sight in methods.
I'm sorry, I am old, feeble, and not up on the "tactical" speak. What the heck is RIBZ and IBZ?
Team Firebird
#6
Posted 24 June 2012 - 06:25 PM
I currently have the rifle zero'ed at 100yds. Been reading online about RIBZ, IBZ, and various other sight in methods.
I'm sorry, I am old, feeble, and not up on the "tactical" speak. What the heck is RIBZ and IBZ?
If I recall correctly:
Revised Improved Battlesight Zero
and Improved Battlesight Zero
#7
Posted 25 June 2012 - 08:12 PM
I wont have a chance to work on any longer range stuff until I visit my buddy in SD next month.
Good read Mr Kelley! I will try and get dialed in at 400yds on my next trip to SD. Of my 3 local 3gun shoots only one has access to a 300yd range and the other two are 200 and 100yd max.
The Dissipator seems like an advantage on the shorter/pistol bay type courses of fire we encounter here in the midwest.
#8
Posted 26 June 2012 - 04:25 PM
#9
Posted 01 July 2012 - 05:48 PM
Is it a real dissy with a rifle length gas system. I have not seen one of those. The rumor is that they are sensitive and tough to tune, having to mess with ports and carriers and buffers. The only dissy I have seen are the mid length gas systems under the handguard. Great choice btw. Love dissy's.
Yep its a "real" one. I was concerned about buffers and had a n H, H3 and rifle buffer on hand when I put the rifle together. They all ran and I liked the feel of the rifle buffer the most so that's what I am running.
Its got a Bravo Company BCG (I am a big BCM fan boy, I cant say enough good things about there bolts).
#10
Posted 05 July 2012 - 05:31 PM
#11
Posted 06 July 2012 - 07:15 AM
I shot irons for one season and some of the issues I struggled with were:Since long-distance targets present a small aiming area, a 6-o’clock hold is generally preferred. This allows the shooter to have a good visual hold point without having to look at the target to maintain the hold.
- In bright sunlight on the front sight, glare can be an issue. I guess there are several ways to combat this, old timers use a "smoker" to make the front sight a flat black, Birchwood Casey has sight black in a spay can that does pretty good job. You can spray it on for one stage and wipe it off for the next. Another way is with a hooded front sight.
- Low contrast/dark target. At the AR 15 pro/am there was a MGM flasher (10" steel) in the shade at maybe 200 yds, bright morning sunlight on the shooter, morning haze close to the ground. I found my front sight disappeared in the dark background and I could not see my front sight. I later read where Bruce Piatt started out shooting irons in three gun and used a small FO front sight and a 6 hold and I started using that same set-up My link .050 width, and it worked well for me after I dulled the FO rod a little with a sharpie (the exposed length, not the tip you see when aiming). Otherwise in full sunlight the FO rod was blazing and made seeing distant targets a challenge even with a 6 hold. With it dulled I could still see it against a dark background/target and see a crisp outline of the front sight post in bright light.
- Going from close (5yds) to far (400yds) can be done several ways, going from larger to small peep is a little painful on the clock. I found if I had a short course say out to 100 yards I could just use the large peep and make good hits. If the COF was 0-300 I would just use the small peep and front and rear ears for close targets. Using the small peep with both eyes open and a good cheek weld is still pretty fast up close. If I were to do this again, and I might, I would work on using the large peep from 0-200 as I think accuracy would be sufficient once you got a handle on the change in elevation, I think there are some “same plane” rear apertures out there that would make this easier.
Good luck!
"I'm just an IDPA guy!"
Dave's Rules:
- Only take advice from people better than you ever want to be.
- Beware of the dying jackass' last kick!
- The timer tells no lies.
#12
Posted 31 July 2012 - 09:55 PM
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