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Trim Die for 300 Blackout


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#1 The_Vigilante

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Posted 29 March 2012 - 11:13 AM

I am contemplating buying the Dillon trimmer for .223 and 300 Blackout. Brian advises me that Dillon doesn't make a trim die for the 300 Blackout. Does any other company make a trim die for 300 Blackout? Thanks
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#2 TimAustinTX

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Posted 29 March 2012 - 12:28 PM

I am contemplating buying the Dillon trimmer for .223 and 300 Blackout. Brian advises me that Dillon doesn't make a trim die for the 300 Blackout. Does any other company make a trim die for 300 Blackout? Thanks



I'm looking to do the exact same thing.
Tim
Austin, Texas

#3 n2ipsc

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Posted 29 March 2012 - 12:32 PM

Look HERE

Have one of these and it works beautifully...

Edited by n2ipsc, 29 March 2012 - 12:33 PM.

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#4 Intel6

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Posted 29 March 2012 - 12:32 PM

Most people are using one from C4HD:

C4HD site

This guy sells cut down toolheads needed for using it on a Dillon and the die itself:

Brad's Wharehouse link

Neal in AZ

#5 The_Vigilante

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Posted 29 March 2012 - 12:49 PM

According to the description from the CH4D website the File Trim Die is useful when a considerable amount of material needs to be trimmed off the top of a case after forming operations. The case is run completely into the die, and what projects out of the top of the die can be sawed off and/or filed smooth. So can I use these same dies to trim factory ammo that I've shot and now need to trim it back to specs?
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#6 TimAustinTX

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Posted 04 April 2012 - 02:59 PM

According to the description from the CH4D website the File Trim Die is useful when a considerable amount of material needs to be trimmed off the top of a case after forming operations. The case is run completely into the die, and what projects out of the top of the die can be sawed off and/or filed smooth. So can I use these same dies to trim factory ammo that I've shot and now need to trim it back to specs?



I think I may just order the die from CH4D and try it. I will post after I get it all setup and let you know how it works.
Tim
Austin, Texas

#7 jonblack

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Posted 10 April 2012 - 07:33 AM

I have had the CH4D 300 Whisper trim die for a couple of years. It works fine and it will work for making 300 Blackout brass.

Yes, you do need to but down your tool head. I just bought an extra one and cut it down using my router.

jonblack

Edited by jonblack, 11 April 2012 - 11:01 AM.


#8 joelogic

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Posted 10 April 2012 - 07:48 AM

+1 for CH4D and the toolhead mod. Be aware that removing 10mm of brass can be hard on the motor and Dillon only warranties it for 1 year, this is why people are charging a premium over brass processing to make 300BLK brass.

#9 technetium-99m

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Posted 10 April 2012 - 09:36 AM

There are videos on YouTube showing people chopping the 223 cases down with a small power saw before forming so not as much is removed upon final trimming. This is likely the rout I'd take if I were making 300 Blackout brass.

#10 Turnpike

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Posted 11 April 2012 - 08:36 AM

I bought a 1050 from Brian to help speed my process up. I have a trim die from Brads Warehouse for the 300 Blackout. I did not see any pre-modified toolheads out there so I did my own (I figured if I had to buy one, might as well look at the cost to buy one already modifiied). I found it was easy to modify my toolhead. In fact I am getting ready to run my first batch of 223/556 to 300 blk this week. I need to get up and running so I can hit the range.

Mike

I have heard the same success is had with the CH4D dies. I had a set for my 458 socom and they worked great.

#11 Braxton1

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Posted 03 May 2012 - 09:02 AM

I am not a fan of trimming. In my opinion, it is a necessary evil perpetrated upon the shooting community by Satan himself. With that said, I am a big believer in doing it with power tools....

Check out www.littlecrowgunworks.com and see the "W.F.T." trimmer. It is available for most calibers and only costs roughly $70 complete. It is as simple to operate as an electric pencil sharpener. Insert the case. When you feel resistance stop, give the case a quarter-turn twist. Done. Move on to chamfering, if you wish.

I power mine with a bench-top lathe. A lot of folks just use a hand-held power drill.

They are available in a wide selection of cartridges, including .223, .308 Win., and .300 AAC Blackout.

LT Bruce Braxton
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Owner, Camp Creek Gunworks "Ask about the new E-SASS and C-SASS rifles."  

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#12 dillon

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Posted 04 May 2012 - 08:06 AM

Keep in mind that using a Dillon RT1200 to trim the entire .500" or so off of a 223 case WILL destroy certain internal components of the trimmer. This constitutes abuse, and is not covered under warranty. Please use a different method (cutoff wheel, bandsaw, etc) to trim the bulk of the case down, and use the RT1200 only to remove the last .025" or less. This is the reason Dillon does not offer a trim die for 300 Blackout, as we are seeing too many users attempting to process 223 brass into 300 Blackout soleely using the trimmer, then they complain that it doesn't hold up. The trimmer is intended to typically remove .010" or so of brass is all. If you destroy a trimmer we know specifically which parts will fail, then you will unjustly blame us when we refuse to replace it.

#13 viper5243

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Posted 04 May 2012 - 02:36 PM

I'm assuming its from taking all of it off at 1 time and heating up and wearing the motor. Instead of taking one long deep cut, could you just take several smaller cuts and still be fine?

#14 Chills1994

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Posted 04 May 2012 - 03:13 PM

Posted Image
Posted Image

These are pics from another forum. that is a cheap harbor freight saw.

I gotta hold on to my angst.  I preserve it because I need it.  It keeps me sharp, on the edge, where I gotta be.


#15 Chills1994

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Posted 04 May 2012 - 03:21 PM

Me?

I have a Powermatic metal cutting bandsaw. So if I were to ever form Blackout brass, I would make a jig from a 2x4 block and use a drywall screw in the bottom of the hole to control the depth of the case inside the block.

Using the Dillon 1200 trimmer is horribly inefficient in my opinion and taxes it way too much.

I bet that little saw from harbor freight is in the $50 to $100 ball park, if that.

I gotta hold on to my angst.  I preserve it because I need it.  It keeps me sharp, on the edge, where I gotta be.


#16 Intel6

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Posted 04 May 2012 - 04:14 PM

If you have a metal cutting bandsaw you can put 10 cases in a stripper clip and rough cut down 10 cases at a time.

Neal in AZ

#17 Chills1994

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Posted 04 May 2012 - 04:36 PM

Awesome idea! :cheers:

I gotta hold on to my angst.  I preserve it because I need it.  It keeps me sharp, on the edge, where I gotta be.


#18 dillon

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Posted 05 May 2012 - 08:43 AM

One of our customers drilled holes in a 2x2 to press the cases into, then uses a bandsaw to shorten about 50 cases at a time before forming and trimming.

#19 Chills1994

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Posted 05 May 2012 - 10:17 AM

A dumb...dumb... Dumb question, pardon the drift...

What if you got .223 "cases" that hadn't had the neck and shoulder formed just yet... Basically, it would look like a very long straight walled pistol case.

Then you necked and shouldered it down to take a .308 bullet.

You would have more case volume than the .300 Blackout, which would theoretically give you more gas to drive the lighter weight 120, 130, and 150 grain bullets even faster, super sonically, and give you a trajectory that wasn't so rainbow like.

I am ASSuming that a normal .223 case's neck is too thin to make it stretch out to accept a .308 bullet.

I am also ASSuming that I am not the first one to think of this.

I gotta hold on to my angst.  I preserve it because I need it.  It keeps me sharp, on the edge, where I gotta be.


#20 dillon

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Posted 05 May 2012 - 02:53 PM

The issue is that the loaded cartidge must fit in a standard AR15 magazine. Wilson combat has a longer version, called the 7.62x40
http://www.wilsoncom...om/762x40WT.htm

#21 Chills1994

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Posted 05 May 2012 - 03:47 PM

Posted Image

Yeah.... I don't know much about internal ballistics, so I have no idea how far a bullet can invade the internal space of a bottlenecked rifle case.

I was thinking it would be possible to have the case mouth right at the start of the ogive.

I gotta hold on to my angst.  I preserve it because I need it.  It keeps me sharp, on the edge, where I gotta be.


#22 Tom Freeman

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Posted 06 May 2012 - 07:50 AM

From left to right.

300 gn Berger OTM Hybrid for 338 Lapua.
223/5.56
300 Whisper/Blackout case.
300 Whisper loaded with a Sierra 220 gn Matchking.
7.62x40 Wilson.

The original 300 Whisper ammo was formed from necked up 221 Fireball brass. Plenty of neck left even after being necked up to 30 caliber.

Posted Image
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#23 Chills1994

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Posted 07 May 2012 - 03:07 PM

Thanks Tom. I know if there is one person on this forum who could answer .300 Blackout ammo or case forming questions, it would be you. :cheers:

I gotta hold on to my angst.  I preserve it because I need it.  It keeps me sharp, on the edge, where I gotta be.


#24 literAcola

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Posted 08 June 2012 - 07:44 PM

Keep in mind that using a Dillon RT1200 to trim the entire .500" or so off of a 223 case WILL destroy certain internal components of the trimmer. This constitutes abuse, and is not covered under warranty. Please use a different method (cutoff wheel, bandsaw, etc) to trim the bulk of the case down, and use the RT1200 only to remove the last .025" or less. This is the reason Dillon does not offer a trim die for 300 Blackout, as we are seeing too many users attempting to process 223 brass into 300 Blackout soleely using the trimmer, then they complain that it doesn't hold up. The trimmer is intended to typically remove .010" or so of brass is all. If you destroy a trimmer we know specifically which parts will fail, then you will unjustly blame us when we refuse to replace it.


Sorry to bump an old thread, but I was hoping dillon would see this question in regards to this topic: I plan on buying the RT1200 trimmer with a 300 blk trim die, but I am definitely going to take your advice and cut the bulk of the brass off first with a chop saw. My question is this: after cutting with chop saw, the edges will be rough. Will I have to clean them up by chamfering before trimming in the RT1200? Or will it be ok to put the brass straight from the chopsaw into the trimmer? Thanks!

#25 freakshow10mm

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Posted 08 June 2012 - 09:15 PM

If your chop saw blade is sharp, it should make a clean enough cut that won't harm the trimming blade on the Dillon trimmer. That's how I form Blackout brass. You'll be fine going from the chop saw right to the trimmer.




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