131 replies to this topic

[Robley]

yes I was looking at objects inside 20 yards, and now that you mention it I see that the magnification effect appears less at greater distances. But what is the "chart" you refered to? And is 50 yards some standard of measurement for magnification? I had simply assumed that a 1x would look like any other reflex sight, ie NO magnification visible at close range.

[MarkCO]

yes I was looking at objects inside 20 yards, and now that you mention it I see that the magnification effect appears less at greater distances. But what is the "chart" you refered to? And is 50 yards some standard of measurement for magnification? I had simply assumed that a 1x would look like any other reflex sight, ie NO magnification visible at close range.

Inside of 50 yards, parallax and edge affects will cause some distortion. Reflection, refraction, imperfections in collimation and eye aligment stuff that is cool and all, but really academic. Trust me, you really don't want to know, but any decent college physics book will have a chapter towards the back on light and optics. I have no idea if there is a standard or what the manufacturer's do to check this and I am resisting the urge to check ASTM.

I chart scopes at the low (at 50 yards) and high power (further out depending on high mag, usually 100 yards per 3x). To make it simple to explain, if the manufacturer tells you that a wind hold bar in your scope is 5 MOA wide at 100 yards, then at 50 yards (exactly from the bell to the chart) that bar had better cover 2.5 inches (and no I am not concerned about 0.025" of error for this). Of course, use the largest dimension you can find in your reticle to maximize any error. Does not matter if the scope is on the side or not. For the MOA explanation, look here: http://riflestocks.tripod.com/moa.html

If you want to check several scopes, binocs, rangefinders, etc. (I know most of you don't care), set up a spot at the range or your bench and buy yourself a pocket rod and find a good repeatable spot and just do the math to correlate the magnification to your set-up. Before KurtM reads this and gets all excited about pocket rods, it is just a surveyors rod in a tape measure format: http://www.amazon.co...s/dp/B000KL6LNO

[MarkCO]

Hmmm, there is an ASTM standard for "archery" optics and aircraft optics, even optics for monitoring nuclear sites, but not rifle scopes.

[DWFAN]

Got mine all mounted up tonight, range report to follow tomorrow.

[ShootfastRunfaster]

Here is a quick report as I just mounted and zeroed mine today. I zeroed it at 100 yards using M193 from my 18" barreled Noveske with a LaRue LT-104 mount. At 100 yards I am in the center of the center dot. At 200 the point of impact is on the bottom edge of the center dot. This dot seems to be just shy of 3 moa as it almost covers a 3" Shoot n' See at 100 yards. The second dot down was dead on for 300 yards. With the considerable reduction in size compared to the center dot, I was easily able to aim and shoot 8" round steels at 300. I haven't had a chance to test it beyond 300 yards, but for me it seems that Burris has hit a home run with this one.

[MarkCO]

Here is a quick report as I just mounted and zeroed mine today. I zeroed it at 100 yards using M193 from my 18" barreled Noveske with a LaRue LT-104 mount. At 100 yards I am in the center of the center dot. At 200 the point of impact is on the bottom edge of the center dot. This dot seems to be just shy of 3 moa as it almost covers a 3" Shoot n' See at 100 yards. The second dot down was dead on for 300 yards. With the considerable reduction in size compared to the center dot, I was easily able to aim and shoot 8" round steels at 300. I haven't had a chance to test it beyond 300 yards, but for me it seems that Burris has hit a home run with this one.

Just curious if you did any close to far or far to close transitions...was your experience similar to mine?

Did you care about, one way or the other, the top T bar above the center dot?

[ken hebert]

dont have it, but the top as well as the side T bars can go. less clutter. unnecessary garbage in my field of view.

[ShootfastRunfaster]

Here is a quick report as I just mounted and zeroed mine today. I zeroed it at 100 yards using M193 from my 18" barreled Noveske with a LaRue LT-104 mount. At 100 yards I am in the center of the center dot. At 200 the point of impact is on the bottom edge of the center dot. This dot seems to be just shy of 3 moa as it almost covers a 3" Shoot n' See at 100 yards. The second dot down was dead on for 300 yards. With the considerable reduction in size compared to the center dot, I was easily able to aim and shoot 8" round steels at 300. I haven't had a chance to test it beyond 300 yards, but for me it seems that Burris has hit a home run with this one.

Just curious if you did any close to far or far to close transitions...was your experience similar to mine?

Did you care about, one way or the other, the top T bar above the center dot?

I haven't shot it beyond zeroing and checking the reticle at 200 and 300. I could do without the top bar also. The sides did make it kind of easier to center on a silhouette.

[Shibby]

Anyone know how the weight of the Burris compares to a DMS?

[stik]

Don't know the exact weight but I do own one of each and the Millet DMS is heavier and longer than the Burris. Burris appears to be slightly clearer glass and better eye relief over the range between 1-4. With the Millet, it seems eye relief is shorter the higher the power..

[MarkCO]

The Tac30 is 17 ounces, the millet is heavier.

[HS101]

Mine came in yesterday, and the mount came in today... Looking forward to hitting the range this weekend with it...

[suesstech]

HS101,
What mount did you end up going with?

[HS101]

I went with the Burris PEPR... not pretty or light weight, but then, neither am I

I have one on another scope and it has worked out well.

[rc2125]

Any feedback on the lowest levels of illumination with these scopes? I have a Leatherwood cmr right now, it goes ultra low which works excellent during lowlight use, wondered about this tac30. (*rifle serves as match & calling rifle).

Edited by rc2125, 22 November 2010 - 06:46 AM.

[MarkCO]

Any feedback on the lowest levels of illumination with these scopes? I have a Leatherwood cmr right now, it goes ultra low which works excellent during lowlight use, wondered about this tac30. (*rifle serves as match & calling rifle).

There are 10 levels. The low is pretty low, suitable for night use. The illumination is visible from downrange.

[Nealio]

Got mine on Friday, and it looked like a true 1X to me. I can run both eyes open.

[Robley]

Where do you find a chart of the reticle subtensions? I have looked but cant find it.

[HS101]

google Burris CQB Reticle picture


I believe it is the same one in the Burris AR-332. Here is a link that shows it . Tac 30 is red illumination only...
I plan on makiing a cheat sheet to my rile with 55gr and 69gr bullets. I can try it out to 300 at a local range, and the guesstimate it from there. Hopefully I can go to the sight in range before Fort Benning and crack off a few longer shots.

Edited to add a better link.

Edited by HS101, 23 November 2010 - 06:47 AM.

[MarkCO]

Here is the Tac30 with a MGM Switchview. I used the Leupold CQ/T model. The top 2 photos are if you want to use your right hand to throw the lever. The middle two are if you want to use your left hand. I milled out a releif hole for the screw in the occular ring which is the last photo.

Thanks to Travis and MGM for helping me to get a fit for this new scope.

Attached Files

•  Tac 30.jpg   552.25K   466 downloads

[tgibson]

Here is the Tac30 with a MGM Switchview. I used the Leupold CQ/T model. The top 2 photos are if you want to use your right hand to throw the lever. The middle two are if you want to use your left hand. I milled out a releif hole for the screw in the occular ring which is the last photo.

Thanks to Travis and MGM for helping me to get a fit for this new scope.

Glad it worked out for you Mark!
Adios,
TG

[Nealio]

MarkCo,

Is your magnification ring really stiff to turn? Mine is so stiff id be worried about damaging something if I yanked on it with the SwitchView™ on there.

[MarkCO]

MarkCo,

Is your magnification ring really stiff to turn? Mine is so stiff id be worried about damaging something if I yanked on it with the SwitchView™ on there.

They are stiff, stiffer than some other brands. However, I am not worried about it at all. I have a bunch of Burris scopes, some that are over 15 years old with the same basic mechanical zoom, and have not had a problem with any of them. They do have a forever warranty as well if you are nervous. If you have a loose zoom ring, the stop at the end will actually deliver a greater dynamic force, so from a longevity standpoint, this is not an issue for me. The switchview gives you about a 2 times mechanical lever and I am sure the FOS is above that.

[jimm223]

Here is the Tac30 with a MGM Switchview. I used the Leupold CQ/T model. The top 2 photos are if you want to use your right hand to throw the lever. The middle two are if you want to use your left hand. I milled out a releif hole for the screw in the occular ring which is the last photo.

Thanks to Travis and MGM for helping me to get a fit for this new scope.

Mark does the switchview fit snug enough? When i emailed kevin with the measurment of the power ring (1.560) he didn't think they had one that would work. But if yours is ok i will get one ordered.
Thanks Jim

[MarkCO]

Here is the Tac30 with a MGM Switchview. I used the Leupold CQ/T model. The top 2 photos are if you want to use your right hand to throw the lever. The middle two are if you want to use your left hand. I milled out a releif hole for the screw in the occular ring which is the last photo.

Thanks to Travis and MGM for helping me to get a fit for this new scope.

Mark does the switchview fit snug enough? When i emailed kevin with the measurment of the power ring (1.560) he didn't think they had one that would work. But if yours is ok i will get one ordered.
Thanks Jim

Yes, it is plenty tight. The holse for the screw in the occular pretty much locked it in place. It would go on without the hole, and hold, but the bend was too much for my taste.

What I did was mount the SV and then center and mill out a hole with a ball mill where the screw marked the inside of the ring. With this method, I got the SV clocked exactly how I wanted it to boot. The ring is not fully flush with the knurled ring at the screw location, but there is enough of an indent to lock it in place and make it look right.