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Machining barrel seat in a 1911 frame.


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#1 m134b

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Posted 20 June 2010 - 04:35 AM

Anyone have any ideas for this? Trying to reach 6" vertically into that tiny area inside the dust cover has me somewhat stumped.... I'm trying to make a single stack frame with a full length dust cover for a 6" upper. :wacko:

This is the last obstacle to stand in my way!! :sight:

I KNOW it "can" be done, I'm just not finding a practical way of doin' it!

Ken

Edited by m134b, 20 June 2010 - 06:14 AM.


#2 Merlin Orr

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Posted 20 June 2010 - 05:02 AM

With a standard end mill from the top.
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#3 m134b

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Posted 20 June 2010 - 05:37 AM

I've likely used incorrect terminology.. As they say, "a picture is worth a thousand words" :ph34r: The area I'm talkin' about is in yellow :)
Attached File  problem area.jpg   46.09KB   215 downloads

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#4 Sudden Death

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Posted 20 June 2010 - 07:23 AM

Make a corbon electrode and use a EDM, that is the best way and most accurate too. Plus go in from top side of rails so electrode does not half to be that big.
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#5 wide45

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Posted 20 June 2010 - 09:03 AM

Use a Clark style cut for a ramped barrel.
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#6 Braxton1

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Posted 20 June 2010 - 12:11 PM

I THINK that the E.G.W. bridge cutter mill is longer than the Nowlin cutter. Just a thought....

That would allow you to reach that area from the front, which would be necessary if you insist on Wilson/Nowlin ramps.

Like a previous poster said: You could use a Clark/Para ramped barrel and do all the milling work from the top.

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#7 m134b

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Posted 20 June 2010 - 01:05 PM

I may wind up going with a ramped barrel. The only end mills I can find that are long enough to reach this area are more expensive than the barrel itself!

Ken

#8 RussB

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Posted 20 June 2010 - 06:07 PM

For the record, that's the vertical impact surface, or VIS
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#9 m134b

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Posted 20 June 2010 - 07:07 PM

Thank you Russ :) Makes me humbled to not have known that :bow:

Ken

#10 m134b

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Posted 24 June 2010 - 11:50 PM

Figured it out.... I just had to be smarter than the problem. Rather than trying to mill the flat that far down with half the stinkin' thing umsupported, I'll simply pre-drill the hole, ream to proper diameters, and finish the VIS with a reamer modified to center cut. The rest I can finish conventionally and with files.

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#11 sperman

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Posted 25 June 2010 - 04:57 AM

Use a Clark style cut for a ramped barrel.



+1. The clark / para style cut allows you to cut from the top of the frame, instead of the front end.
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