Zero 230 gr FMJ in 1911 recommended OAL?
Posted 12 May 2010 - 12:16 PM
Zero Bullet: 45 Acp (.451 Diameter) - 230 GR FMJ
VN 320 / VN 340 / Bullseye (Powders on hand)
When I drop my reloads into my Taurus 1911 they stop just shy of flush. They need to be slammed in with the Slide. I have noticed this at many different OALS. Is this normal?? How do I Fix??
Posted 12 May 2010 - 12:19 PM
Posted 12 May 2010 - 12:53 PM
Posted 12 May 2010 - 01:44 PM
Edited by Steve J, 12 May 2010 - 01:45 PM.
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Posted 12 May 2010 - 01:55 PM
Are you sure it's not a re-sizing problem????????
Posted 12 May 2010 - 01:58 PM
ICORE IA 8465
Posted 12 May 2010 - 02:15 PM
Posted 12 May 2010 - 03:05 PM
Make sure you're not crimping too much as it can cause the case to swell just behind the mouth....causing chambering issues. Crimp to remove belling, no more.
Thanks, I will check that. Truth is I had no idea how much crimp to put on. To me it made sense to make as much of the ridge disappear without denting bullet too much.
Posted 12 May 2010 - 03:07 PM
1.220 to 1.230 OAL will work with pretty much all the 230FMJ bullets out there, from Zero, Precision Delta, and the Plated 230s from Berrys and Rainiers as well. Some of the ogives are different, and the longer you get, the more you may have problems with your slide stop if it hasn't been "modified" for the longer OAL loaded rounds(last round bumping up the slide stop). If it will fit in the magazine, it will normally feed ok as well!
I had loaded many Precision Black bullets to 1.235. They also had to be "bumped in". They fed fine thru magazine and always cycled I was just told by another reloader that when the slide was back I should be able to drop in barrel and it would seat and then come out without sticking. It came out fine, but didn't go all the way in.
Posted 12 May 2010 - 03:10 PM
1.25" has always worked great for me. 1.266" is the milspec max, but some reloading manuals will give you 1.27".
The Vihitavouri says to load to 1.26 but their data was on a 6"barrel. I am using 320 for my next batch and I think I will try 1.25.
Posted 12 May 2010 - 04:27 PM
I recomend making up a dummy round too long. Paint the nose with black marker and seat by trial and error until it jams the barrels leade. Witness marks left on the black marker will tell. Thats your first dim. Next see how long will fit in all your mags. Record that dim too. Then see what will ride up the feed ramp every time no hangs write that one down too. Once I figure all three for Auto pistols intended for matches that jams cost points I back off a bit and use it for my standard Dim. It's critical to set it for each different bullet as the nose shape makes a differnce some times considerable
Understand some matches allow "Aliby's So long and jaming the leade may be more accurate at no cost in match scores. Others like the matches guys on this board shoot pay a large price for jams and you don't want any. Bolt rifles loaded single shot I like to push the bullet into the lead everytime.
On the Crimp. It's hard to measure Crimp without some sort of jig to hold your mike at the same spot everytime. I use a magnifier to set my crimp. Auto pistols I like a firm bullet, won't move when pressed with my thumb. All the flare rolled out and no more, no deforming of the bullet at all. Best way to set it is again a dummy round and trial and error. Once it's right I measure the distance from the bottom of my press were the case goes in to the top of the die and top of the seating stem. That way I can repeat the setting easy.
4 45 ACP's, two 625 Smith Revolvers two Colt 1911's OAL I use is different each one.
Posted 13 May 2010 - 08:32 AM
What I did was load up some dummies at the length you think is right, then hand cycle the gun slowly and check for the two problems mentioned above and adjust the length accordingly.
If the gun feeds well when you hand cycle it slowly, it should work well when it's cycling by itself too. Note that some resistance is ok, but is should definitely go into battery by itself if you drop it from almost in battery position.
Another thing worth checking is the recoil spring. With a weak recoil spring, the gun will not feed as well. I use a 16# in my single stacks. Anything less seems to compromise feeding reliability in my guns.
Posted 13 May 2010 - 09:06 AM
Posted 13 May 2010 - 10:40 AM
Posted 13 May 2010 - 12:04 PM
If your round gages, the ammo is fine and the problem is with the gun. Are you have problems with just your reloads, or are you also having problems with factory ammo?
Another option is to have a gunsmith check your chamber with a go/no-go gage. I doubt that'll be necessary unless you're also having problems with factory ammo.
Posted 13 May 2010 - 12:14 PM
I've loaded hundreds of Zero 230's into WIN brass at an OAL of 2.250" (+/- .002") and have had zero issues through a Wilson Combat CQB Elite nor a Springfield Champion.
Posted 03 June 2010 - 07:00 PM
Posted 24 March 2013 - 02:56 PM
Posted 24 March 2013 - 04:06 PM
The bullet is held by case tension. Only reason for a crimp turned into a grove, or even without a grove, is in a revolver and is to keep the bullets in the unfired rounds from moving forward and jamming the cylinder rotation.
Ideally, the powder drop should leave the case somewhat undersize so that you end up with the "Wasp Waist" effect in the loaded rounds.
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Posted 27 March 2013 - 03:04 PM
Posted 29 March 2013 - 05:57 AM
Posted 30 March 2013 - 02:45 AM
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