The problem: if you have a relatively short trigger (mine is equivalent to an SV ITS with a short/flat profile - some folks run shorter than this, too), and you draw through the lock (that is, the holster is locked, but you pull the gun out anyway) and you somehow manage to take the safety off at the same time, the holster can discharge your handgun!!!
I have seen the hole a foot in front of my right foot, and then recreated it with an empty gun to prove it - in fact, have done it with two different guns using the same trigger profile. Here's how it happens....
- when the holster is locked, it takes a lot of force to draw the gun through the lock. After the muzzle clears the "nipple" on the muzzle platform, that force actually causes the holster to lift away from the body to some degree. This tends to be exacerbated if you're not expecting to be drawing through the lock (like, if you lock the holster, and then forget to remove it)
- as the holster is pulled out away from the body, the right, upper part of the holster that normally blocks access to the trigger is pressed into the trigger guard
- with a medium or longer profile trigger (tried it with a stock STI curve trigger, which is roughly equal to an SV ITS medium curve), the holster body contacts the side of the trigger, and goes no further
- however, with a shorter trigger, the rolled edge of the holster body contacts the front edge of the trigger and presses the trigger rearward
- if you are also in the habit of taking the safety off when you make your grip (bad mojo!), or the force of drawing through the lock (especially when you're not expecting it) causes your thumb to press the safety off (as happened to me)..... your holster is now pushing the trigger rearward on a gun with the safety off!!! BOOOM.
Luckily, this also seems to require a small amount of forward muzzle rotation, which tends to put the muzzle pointing slightly more away from your body, but.... AT BEST, you're going home. At worst, you're visiting the morgue....
I don't know if this holds true for the left handed version of the holster, or not.
We were able to resolve it with a belt sander - basically, we removed the rounded, beveled edge on the inside of the holster, and set the edge back some. This in no way reduces the holster's ability to protect the trigger while holstered, and does not affect the draw at all. It seems to prevent most contact between the holster body and the trigger, and when it does make contact, it does not move the trigger (no rounded edge to roll against). You have to really bend the holster body to get it to make contact at all. Here's what the mod looks like:
Photo.jpg 36.55K
280 downloadsYou can see the shelf on the right side, just above the lock in the holster. We used a belt sander - but you can get the same effect with a file. I wouldn't go Dremel on this one, but you might be braver than me. The key is, you want sharp angles, not nice beveled edges - otherwise, you're only reducing the issue. I don't make any guarantee that this will totally resolve any potential issues - your mileage may and probably will vary - use (or don't use) at your own risk. However, with my trigger profile, I cannot reproduce the problem with this modification to the holster.
And... before someone goes there.... No, my index finger was no where near the trigger... and certainly was not on the trigger when the issue was reproduced with a dry gun both at normal speed and at very slow motion.
For the record, I think the holster is a solid piece of gear - this is one issue that I don't think the manufacturer thought of, and as short triggers are not as common as medium or long ones, and people tend to blame the guy on the gun when one lights off in the dirt in front of them and not the gear, this may have simply gone overlooked for a long time...











